Pulp Fiction's Jack Rabbit Slims meets the Big Lebowski at this brand new, 1950s-themed bowling establishment. With designs taken from Nixon's bowling alley at the Whitehouse along with an Elvis themed Jungle room, All Star Lanes is one of the classiest bowling experience in the city centre.
Rather than gauche amusements, bright flashing lights, and your obligatory lazer quest, the treatment here is more akin to a fine dining restaurant. Customers nestle in retro booths and vintage inspired chairs, supping drinks from a comprehensive cocktail menu until they're lane is ready for bowling. I had the virgin apple and elderflower julep (£4), which was all big mojito flavours and charisma crafted from Apple, elderflower, mint, lemon topped with soda. Needless to say, it didnt last long, while other drinks around the table, like pints of Blue Moon (£5.75, Belgian-style wheat ale, brewed with coriander and orange peel) suffered a similar fate.
The lanes and seating are wooden, offering a more traditional ten-pin experience; no bulk installed tacky plastic seating with lanes that glow in the dark and no high energy dance music on full volume. Instead youve got the kind of soundtrack that Elvis wouldve got his groove on to, complete with low lighting (not too low: you can clearly see what youre doing) and leather-ish booths to recline in while you wait for your go. Theres a short menu of bar snacks to sample from the lanes too. We tried salt and pepper squid with aioli (£6) served in a cute NYC-style take away box, with as well as sweet potato fries (£3) a treat with the house BBQ sauce.
The restaurant is all check floors and diner vibes, but seriously chic its a bit of a triumph. So inspired by the surrounds, our party tucked into burgers served medium with fresh fries on the side (£12) and a fresh and very veg-packed veggie burger from the kids menu. I had the pork chop (£12), seared to tender perfection in the josper grill, with a portion of smoked mash on the side, as well as smoky apple sauce (smoke is a bit of a theme, but then it would be thanks to the josper grills special smoking compartment) and a fresh coleslaw.
With a private room for parties and so on, this new venue is has very much something for everyone - from burgers and bowling to craft ales. Thanks perhaps to the listed building surrounds, its got ready-made vibes; from the minute you arrive, it just feels really special, like youre lucky to be there, and like youre going to have a great time. Dolled up in vintage attire, with brill crème and so on you get the feeling that the staff are actually into the place and its ethos too.
Great Northern, 235 Deansgate
Manchester M3 4EN
T: 0161 871 3600 W: www.allstarlanes.co.uk
WRiter: Christopher Hooson.