Lisa Higginson
On return from my recent gastro-jolly, a discussion ensued among the ToM team about the connotations of hotel eateries. It was agreed that some suffer a loss of status because they are part of a bigger picture of beds and trouser presses, while some gain undeserved status for merely sailing inside the safety of a prestigious five-star sleeping ship that might boast Egyptian cotton sheets and Molton Brown toiletries. In conclusion, we decided there were two very different types of eateries under this umbrella - hotel restaurants and restaurants in hotels.
The Lowry Hotelâs River Restaurant definitely falls into the latter category. Granted, it does have the benefit of being housed inside one of Manchesterâs most illustrious establishments, but that isnât what makes it special - the food is. This is the stylish stomping ground of executive head chef Oliver Thomas, who has been with the restaurant since its conception in 2001 under the guidance of hot-headed master chef Marco Pierre White. Since Oliverâs move to the head of the hotplate last autumn, he has affirmed his status with an infallible no-nonsense approach to British seasonal ingredients and a passion for exquisite execution and the ultimate fine dining experience.
On arrival, it is clear that contemporary opulence exudes from within the four walls of this Canal Wharf hotel, with polished marble, fine art and lavish furnishings. The smart River Bar provides the perfect place to enjoy an aperitif before settling down for dinner in the cosseted surrounds of the restaurant, where soft candlelight, ornate floral displays and comfortable leather seating feature alongside linen dressed tables finely finished with polished silverware. The attention to detail and distinguished service is unqualified, and while it could be considered to have the makings of a pretentious eatery, refreshingly it is not. The proof: we were made to feel just as welcome as Louise Redknapp and her pal who discretely shuffled into the booth next to ours on a quiet Wednesday night.
There is no denying Oliver Thomasâ love affair with regional and British produce after a glance at the a la carte menu. It sings with references to local suppliers and listings of seasonal ingredients that are evidently understood and respected by the brigade. My companionâs starter of Dived scallops with Bury Black Pudding and cauliflower puree (£12.50) was a shining example of this. The stout scallops were cooked by the book; their opaque flesh rested atop a smear of the creamy puree, with the local pudding delicacy adding a peppery hint, although it was a little too dry. My Whitby Crab with cucumber and tomato (£13.50) was also exquisite. The delicate tian of beautifully sweet meat was an uncomplicated celebration of this finest of shellfish and tasted as harbour-side fresh as you could ever hope for. A homemade loaf of warm bread also accompanied our starters wonderfully.
The star of the show for me came with my main course of Braised Cheshire beef with celeriac puree, bacon and button onions (£23.75). Iâm not ashamed to admit, although some would argue that I should be, that I have actually dreamt about this dish since eating it. Cooked gently for four hours until becoming meltingly tender, the overlooked cut of feather blade beef was some of the most delicious meat I have eaten in years. It beheld a flavour that many wouldnât believe existed in beef, a flavour that has ashamedly been lost among all the sirloins and fillets that many restaurants limit themselves too. An intense jus, an earthy celeriac kick and a salty touch of bacon were excellent supporting to acts to the beefâs leading role. My companionâs Welsh Salt Marsh lamb rump with minted pea puree and pan fried sweetbreads (£23.75) hit the high notes too. This excellent British delicacy was championed well, cooked perfectly pink and enhanced by a vibrant pea puree and the rich sweetbreads. We ordered a side of Buttered spinach (£3.95), which was a wise choice as the nature of some dishes means a lack of vegetable accompaniments.
The kitchenâs innovation continued to flourish with the desserts. Floral nuances were a pleasant feature in rich Earl Grey flavoured parfait (£7), which arrived with a delightful miniature chocolate Battenberg and an artistic tempered chocolate finish. And a childish giddiness ensued when I tucked into the indulgent Snickers creme brulee with peanut butter mousse (£7). Spoonfuls of the intensely rich brulee revealed peanut and caramel surprises, while the mousse further echoed the peanutty naughtiness in a truly decadent manner. An extra offering of a Gin and tonic sorbet with pink grapefruit was also exceptional.
We enjoyed the pear and peachy tones of the dry South African Oude Berg Chenin Blanc Western Cape 2007 (£17.50) from the extensive wine list, which has something to suit everyoneâs palate and purse. If you are feeling flush, and unfortunately another disappointing lottery draw meant we were not, you could opt for one of the restaurants fine wines, such as the £600 bottle of Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2ieme Cru Classe St Julien 1982.
The passion and skill that pours out of the River Restaurantâs kitchen is what makes this eatery a success in its own right. This is fine dining in an honest of way; the highest quality ingredients are sensitively sourced and even more sensitively cooked with thought and focus. It should confidently sail under its own success. After all, it was the beef I was left dreaming about and not the hotel hand washâ¦
The River Bar and Restaurant, The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Chapel Wharf, Manchester, M3 5LH
T: 0161 827 4000
W: www.thelowryhotel.com