ITs the oddball side of Umezushi that I admire, writes Neil Sowerby. The daubed images of Andalucia on the walls that match the flamenco soundtrack; the mural of the Kyoto skyline in the lav that seems closer in spirit to the sushi and tempura being prepared for you by the (Turkish) chef in the open-plan kitchen; and the rare presence on a Manchester restaurant wine list of an Austrian red by the glass (a violet-scented and fresh Zweigelt, £5.80).
An affordable Japanese joint, artfully jammed into a space underneath railway arches next to Victoria, its a cool haven. In the lulls between Pacos finger-picking we could almost hear Whitesnake tuning up across the way in the Arena, yet our thoughts were only for the chefs fish sushi selection. The Umezushi website lists the fish of the day, sourced from Chorltons Out of the Blue.
On a previous visit wild turbot joined tuna, salmon and sea trout of exemplary freshness with avocado and nori providing the greens among the rolls and all for £11. For an exotic add-on (the recommended monkfish livers being absent) wed ordered a £5 helping of two giant clams.
This time wild Cornish sea bream and John Dory were the lures on the board. Two chefs fish selections please. So far so good. There was bit of a hard-sell on a side of kimcho but our pickle lust had been sated by the complimentary beetroot appetiser and the excellent wasabi would guarantee clear sinuses. A bowl of post-prandial miso soup to settle us might be good.
We were cajoled, though, into an £8 plate of tempura to share standard squid, prawn, white fish in slightly flabby batter. The sushi platters were much better, but this time the fish wasnt leaping up and singing. We were a long way from supermarket curl up and die sushi, but my expectations were high after my first time here.
Of course, there are alternatively specials, hovering around the £15 mark. Cheshire rib-eye steak teryaki style seems a regular, ditto miso-marinated cod or salmon. The good value Tasting Menu, starts at £30 a head. Its evenings only and you get a warning to put a side two and a half hours for the experience. About as long as a Whitesnake concert or the Bullet Train from Tokyo to Kyoto. Dont expect too many Bullet Trains from Victoria.
Umezushi, Unit 4, Mirabel Street, Manchester. M3 1PJ. 0161 832 1852. http://www.umezushi.co.uk
SAKE TASTING AT HANGING DITCH
Austrian reds aside, one of the joys of Umezushi is its small but perfectly formed (like the restaurant itself) saki list. Much is made of serving this Japanese alcohol warm. Try the subtle, elegant Akashi Tai Daiginjo chilled at @£2 for a 25ml shot.
A range of sakes stars at one of Hanging Ditchs regular masterclasses on Tuesday, June 24. The award-winning wine merchants, just up the road (passing a rather large Cathedral) is hosting Mr Sake Alex Johnson, who will be presenting Akashi-Tai. The £15 cost includes Japanese food pairings from Umezushi, of course. For further details and to book visit www.hangingditch.com or ring 0161 832 8222.