Simon Binns I was not actually expecting much, if I am being honest. But the upsurge in the quality of eating and drinking options on and around Whitworth Street West (Gorilla, Blackdog Ballroom NWS, et al) is neatly summed up at Whim Wham Cafe, opposite The Ritz.
Once inside, it is a delightful mish mash of steam age artefacts and reverence to hearty food, local ales and gin. It is definitely more of a bar than a cafe but you will not find anything on draught. Instead you can indulge in bottles like Kodiak Gold by Beartown or Headless Pale Ale by Redwillow (both £4), just a small part of an impressive range.
Other local food heroes are name-checked across the menu too. The lentil salad comes with smoked Kirkhams cheese (£7) and the sticky toffee pudding sits beside a healthy dollop of ice cream made by Ginger - I had a scoop of her fabulous marmalade on toast flavour.
Fabulous pies
The steak and ale pie (£8) with a side of mustard cabbage (£2.50) and horseradish mash (£2.50) was a triumph. All pies at Whim Wham come from the Great North Pie Co in Stockport, and the house Lancashire Hotpot (£8) is strongly recommended. Wash it down with home-made rose lemonade (£2.50) if you are on the wagon.
A saloon bar is currently being put together on the ground floor, which will only add to what is one of the most surprisingly and enjoyable spaces in town. It has all the makings of a decent drinking den and on the food front, the menu is a full of enthusiasm without being showy. All the dishes put to Taste were finely executed.
In short, Whim Wham Cafe is a gem of a place, and well worth a visit.
Arch 64, Whitworth Street West. Tel: 0161 236 0930