By Neil Sowerby.
YOU could quite easily, anytime before 7pm, pop into the pub formerly known as The Good Samaritan and snatch a sandwich or a steak and ale pie, a pint of Taylors Landlord or Phoenix Hopsack, and depart none the wiser. Youd have to engage second gear if you were heading M66-wards up the vertiginous Peel Brow. Youve only encountered the Hearth of the Ram in first.
Shortlisted in the 2013 Manchester Food and Drink Awards in the Dining Pub category, I expect it in coming years to accelerate into Restaurant of the Year contention. Everythings in place. Owners Euan and Dena Watkins have worked in the hospitality business across the globe and dined in the likes of Californias The French Laundry, El Bulli and the Spanish pretenders to its crown. They were never going to take on the down at heel Samaritan and mark time.
Theyve been in a year and sensibly maintained an element of pubbiness, including that simple daytime and early evening bar menu, but 80 plus covers over two floors and the presence of Abdulla Naz Naseem in the kitchen signals their gastronomic intent. As does their rapid elevation into the 2104 Good Food Guide and justified hopes for a Michelin mention.
Naz is no stranger to the GFG. He headed the brigade at Ramsbottoms stalwart Ramsons when it won the Guides readers restaurant of the year award in 2008, helping forge the image of the town as a foodie destination. After an ill-fated exile in a pizza and pasta place over near Burnley, the chef is back again where he belongs in an ambitious interactive kitchen.
Id not been back since the early days, when the Hearth was still finding its feet. The food then was fine. Now it is quite outstanding. Front of house from canny Scot Euan is first rate, too. Obviously a whisky buff, he has plans for expansion of a wine list that is straining beyond one large sheet. What I like is the huge choice of wines by the glass that includes white Burgundy, a fine Claret and that classic creamy Rioja, Vina Ardanza.
It certainly enabled us to match several recommended wines to the array of small dishes Naz sent out to us. Normally, you have to discuss order a tasting menu here. We were spotted by Naz and it would have been rude to refuse.
Year of the Ram
The food? Strangely familiar, of course. A deft starter of nuttily seared hand-dived king scallops, pea pure puree, pea shoots was pure Ramsons, but it followed a sweet cream of onion soup, swirled with a Port infusion that was definitely not. Nor was venison with smoked gnocchi, which worked well, with the meat less rare than youd expect, a surprisingly elegant Gigondas Les Pallieres the perfect accompaniment.
A tasting plate trio of fish was two thirds a hit crisp monkfish tempura on a celeriac remoulade with a sweet chilli sauce and plaice and crayfish tails on a smooth veloute sauce let down by the coarse curried cod on Bombay potatoes, which overhwelmed both white wines a Picpoul de Pinet and an Albarino.
A pink grouse breast from Goosnargh, wing separate, delicately wrapped in pancetta, was much more wine friendly, while the Ardanza made its long-awaited bow with the all-British cheese board. The pick? Probably the Barkham Blue from Northumberland.
To conclude a tart lemon meringue pie with raspberry sorbet was a pud of finesse and beauty. Mind, that could have applied to so much of the meal.
As 12 months previously we sat in the flagged downstairs dining room with the big stone hearth surmounted by a rams horn logo. Hearth and Ram warmth personified. Upstairs wasnt ready before. It is now offering a rawer space than below. `A good place for a party.
Rammies food pubs have garnered plaudits the Eagle and Child up the hill in Shuttleworth and the equally lofty MFDF Award-winning Shoulder of Mutton across the valley in Holcombe. Neither has the aspirations or the inspiration on the kitchen of the Hearth. Yet for the quality, prices remain fair, even on the a la carte, where starters range from £5-£8, mains from £13-£18.
2014 could well be The Year Of The Ram.
Hearth of the Ram, 13 Peel Brow, Ramsbottom, Bury, Lancashire BL0 0AA. 01706 828681. www.hearthoftheram.com.