The original, much expanded, site of Maurizio Cecco's small family empire, benefiting from canny sourcing, notably the buffalo mozzarella and burrata he imports from his native Naples. The strong flavours of the Mezzorgiorne (olives, capers, tomatoes) are a constant, particularly suited to the fish dishes and matched by a fine Italian (naturally) wine list. Discover more about it by booking into the eight-cover wine room at the back with hundreds of bottles lining the walls.
A true independent gem in the corporate-leaning Corn Exchange. Check out also Salvi's Cucina and Rosticceria, both in John Dalton Street.