Simon Rogan, head chef at two Michelin star L'Enclume in Cartmel, has radically shaken-up the famous French restaurant at the Midland Hotel. Both decor and menu have been transformed with fussy fixtures making way for foraged leaves and plush modernism. Highlights of the love-it-or-hate-it menu include ox tartare with bubbles of mustard, and an edible garden of flowers and leaves plucked from polytunnels on the hotel's roof. Showing off the chef's maverick side, clam chowder is served in egg shells and the best scrambled eggs you've ever tasted in a clam shell. It's all so fresh and fabulous you almost expect a seagull to serve you. Nudging ahead of Heston in this year's Good Food Guide, Rogan has won rave reviews for his latest venture - and he's the hand behind the new Mr Cooper's House and Garden in the lobby of the Midland too. Dinner starts at £55 for six courses, lunch from around £30.