Adam Reid's name is on the restaurant now that Simon Rogan has left. The new regime signals a lightening of there whole operation without losing quality in the kitchen, where Reid was already in charge. Check out in particular the small plate lunchtime offering where the full impact of Redi's reign is felt – staff more casually dressed, music, a sexier grey decor for the venerable dining room. Dishes involving the humble parsnip and broccoli are sublime. And obviously don't forget to order the chef's Golden Empire Apple, which won the BBC's 2016 Great British Menu.

This venue is listed in our Taste of Manchester Taste Charts: