FROM tattooed, tantrum throwing enfant terrible to (nearly) the Grand Old Man of English celebrity chefs, what a long strange trip it’s been for Marco Pierre White.
After becoming the youngest chef to win three Michelin stars and gaining rock star status in the process, he retired from the kitchen in 1999, but his profile remains high as a food and drink entrepreneur – from being the face of Knorr stock cubes to a serial opener of endorsed eateries.
You’ll find his Marco’s New York Italian in the Holiday Inn, Media City; he helped create a menu for the Blue Moon Cafe at the Etihad Stadium and a more upmarket offering in the early days of the Lowry Hotel’s River Room Restaurant.
Now he’s back in Manchester, putting his name to Mr White’s English Chophouse, which has opened in the basement of the Velvet Hotel on Canal Street.
The menu is traditional, featuring steaks, chops, grills and pies, all created by Marco for his Chophouse brand (a Whitechapel venue opened just weeks ago), promising “English classics with French flair, all made with the best ingredients”.
Main courses include 35-day aged steaks, roast rump of lamb a la Dijonnaise, The Governor’s haddock and triple cooked chips (pictured) or a chateaubriand for two. Starters feature baked camembert, seared sea scallops with black pudding, and duck rillettes, while puddings include Alex James cheese served with homemade drunken fruitcake, and espresso affogato.
Head chef Tom Parkin, who has run the Velvet Restaurant for over 22 years, will remain in charge of the team and the upstairs Velvet Bar retains its allure after major renovations. The look is moody with hints of black velvet, dark walls with rose gold feature walls and smoky mirrors. The venue is completed by the 19-room boutique Velvet Hotel, opened in 2009.
Velvet these days is in the hands of KRO Hospitality. Owner Kim Eivind Krohn told us: “Mr White’s English Chophouse is a great addition to the Manchester restaurant scene and I believe it is going to be a big hit with the city’s discerning diners.”
Mr White’s English Chophouse, Velvet Hotel, 2 Canal St, Manchester M1 3HE. 0161 236 9003. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.