LET’S salute the French. No, not that French – the restaurant that the Good Food Guide gives a perfect 10 score and the Michelin Guide keeps snubbing (cue much incredulous tearing of hair). No, Taste of Manchester is paying tribute to the two most Gallic establishments in the city centre, both of which hosted official launch parties recently – Bistrovin and the ’new’ 63 Degrees.
Belatedly in the case of Bistrovin, which has been operating as a wine bar above Spirited Wines on Deansgate since late spring and serving the best cheese and charcuterie platters around. There’s been a similar immaculate sourcing of French members of staff to wait on – not deliberate, insists (Parisian) manager Jonny, just that his fellow natives seem more committed to the upstairs concept.
Though Champagne and Chinon were poured during the party the wines on offer aren’t exclusively French. Spirited below stocks examples from across the globe and you can order any one up for a corkage of only £4 a bottle (over £60 there’s none), which is a great lure to the rustic space with its huge windows, perfect for people spotting. One regular Spirited customer is Sir Howard Bernstein, who gave a speech on the night.
You almost expected Francois Hollande to be cutting a ribbon to officially launch 63 Degrees, which last month moved 400 yards from its previous billet on Church Street to the former Market Restaurant site on High Street and held a terrific bash the day before BIstrovin’s.
The Market closed in April and the Moreau family were swift to earmark the site as a place where they could expand with increased covers, a private function room and an al fresco terrace. There’s a new menu from chef Eric Moreau, championing French cuisine (he’s not averse to a bit of foie gras or frog’s legs) and emphasis on a greater range of wines.
The a la carte menu keeps its formula of eight starters, eight mains plus a selection of desserts and cheeses, but now there will be a simpler, terrace-friendly lunch menu. check out also the Moreaus’ marvellous Didsbury patisserie, run by Eric’s son Alex, Bisous-Bisous. Now that’s even more French!
Bistrovin 59 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 2BB. 0161 834 7328, @BVofDeansgate
63 Degrees, 104 High St, Manchester M4 1HQ. http://www.63degrees.co.uk