FUNNY how we’re Brexiting and still can’t stop looking to Europe for culinary inspiration. Take the NQ bar formerly known as Montpellier’s. The last time ToM crossed its threshold it was to tackle some croque monsieur and boeuf bourguignon. The place also boasted an abundance of big telly screens. In those days United were still (just) basking in the rosy glow of Fergie-led success.
The screens were still there last week, capturing the Reds’ debacle in Turkey, but the bar theme had changed nationality. Nowadays it is The Bouncing Czech, run by Franco Sotgiu – Sardinian roots but best known for serving up US-influenced ‘dirty food’ at his Solita chain. Global, eh?
Franco popped round the corner from the original Solita in Turner Street to show us his new bouncing baby, which aims to recreate a Prague beer hall. Hence the presence of Kozel and Pilsener Urquell, not alas in the unpasteurised fresh tank beer form to be found at Albert’s Schloss, Cottonopolis and The Oast House.
The Czech food is limited at the moment to pretzels and small plates of sausage and goulasch and dumplings made in-house by Cech chefs. Served on picnic plates with plastic cutlery, but prices are low.
Decor is equally rudimentary with rustic murals and beer memorabilia, upstairs smarter than the basement. The wall-to wall football action dominates, so if you fancy a quiet Pils and goulasch pick your time accordingly.
Bouncing Czech, 42 Back Turner St, Manchester M4 1FR.