• Cabana, Vapiano, Gino and more – Corn Exchange is a real melting pot

Cabana, Vapiano, Gino and more – Corn Exchange is a real melting pot

22 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

EATERIES are arriving thick and fast now, populating the Corn Exchange, Manchester’s domed mega menu mall. Latest on the tick sheet is Cabana, offering Brazilian-style barbecue (lots of stuff on skewers along the lines of Bem Brazil or, more impressively, Fazenda). 

It’s a colourful addition to the global melting pot of cuisines on offer – latest in a nine-strong chain, mostly in London but also with a presence in Leeds. Food apart (we’d recommend the earthy Feiojadas stew rather than the grilled meats) the concept leans heavily on caipirinhas, Samba rhythms and a Copacabana feelgood factor.

Maybe Mowgli feels more attractive to Taste of Manchester because it is less of a chain – merely a more expansive version of the Indian street food-centric original in Liverpool. Chains are the way at Corn Exchange. Some are bigger than others. Salvi’s, due back mid-November in its old space but with more room, has its two John Dalton outlets, but that is it, while Tampopo, another former occupant, due back late November, has its roots firmly in Manchester, despite expanding into the south.


Vapiano, in contrast, is a worldwide phenomenon. They have just announce that their Corn Exchange branch (above), their first in the UK outside London, will open to the public on Friday, November 27, bringing another 400 covers to their international party that now includes more than 150 restaurants. The Manchester Vapiano will span two floors and feature a 100-year-old olive tree and fresh live herbs on the tables.

The formula is self-service with guests “enjoying face-to-face interactions with chefs” (that’s what the hand-out says) as they cook their dish to order. Guests order and pay using a smart card system – one per customer – meaning everyone pays for what they order, avoiding the need for tricky bill splitting at the end of the meal.

Vapiano’s team of 40 chefs will make pasta dough fresh each day, transforming it into 11 different types using a bespoke pasta machine, the ‘Manifattura’.  Resultant pasta dishes include Arrabbiata and Pesto Basilico for £6.95, alongside pizzas for the same price and the Calzone with ham, spicy Italian sausage, mushrooms, mixed herbs, onions, tomato sauce and mozzarella for £9.25. Sauces, dressings and desserts are all made fresh in-house each day, which sounds impressive.

The name comes from an old Italian proverb ‘Chi va piano, va sano e lontano’, meaning ‘if you have a relaxed approach to life, yours will be long and healthy.’

With so much fierce competition already in place – Banyan, Byron, The Cosy Club, Pho, Pizza Express, Wahaca, Zizzi et al, with the modestly titled Gino d’Acampo, My Restaurant also dishing out the pasta from November – TOM feels ‘relaxed’ may not be the byword for the Corn Exchange in the months ahead.

Corn Exchange, Exchange Square, Manchester M4 3TR.0161 834 8961. 


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