STARTING with the positives, what a superb job the Radisson has done, transforming its main restaurant space to accommodate their new Peter Street Kitchen concept. Ah, but that final word, inexorably linked with ‘rolling out’ casts the first seed of doubt as we settle into the space formerly known as Opus One (that penumbral rouged up dark wood/leather mausoleum at odds with the brightness of the rest of the hotel.
That concept, already trialled at three other Edwardians, consists of yoking Japanese and Mexican cuisines on to one menu. No fusion is being perpetrated; dishes from one cuisine stare across the page at the other. ‘Are there Japanese or Mexicans in the kitchen?’ we ask our first server. One or two is the reply.
Staff have apparently been put through 'an intensive seven-week training period including an immersion into Japanese food and drink, culture and etiquette’. As each of my diplomatically chosen dishes appears on the table, Mexican contingent first, then a couple of Japanese, our ultra measured second server puts to good use his new-found knowledge, explaining guacamole, wasabi and the secret pledges of samurai warriors.
OK, we made that last one up, but the preambles were disconcerting. It made me wish I’d spent time first comparing sakes and tequilas at the handsome Rikyū Bar, which lives at one end of the space; the other is occupied by a shrine-like robata grill area against an expanse of large pebbled wall.
All the serving staff are decked out in similar costumes to the one above, not always to such stylish effect. How will they be kitted out on Friday, November 2 when in association with Moet et Chandon ‘Peter Scary Kitchen’ is hosting a £65 a head Mexican Day of the Dead dinner and after party with a DJ and live entertainment. Presumably Japan will be on hold for the night?
We celebrated our personal Mexican Day of the Living by ordering their signature guacamole, which was far superior to the pot you might get in Pret but it came with nachos. Over at less elegant El Taquero, where the staff hail from Mexico City, they operate a ‘No Nachos’ policy and we’re with them. Crab tostadas (three, £7) and Mayan spiced chicken tacos (two, £5) were pleasant uncomplicated mouthfuls. Order several such ‘small plates’ and a bill will mount.
The arrival of Japan produced the best dish of our swift lunch – seared beef tataki with truffle ponzu, the equal of a similar dish at Australasia, which does this sort of stuff really well. A £12 prawn claypot added substance with ample evidence of Tiger prawns, shitake mushrooms and garlic roasted kale among the fine ibuki rice, but the broth needed more shichimi spicing.
It’s early days and I’m sure Peter Street Kitchen will smooth out the current awkwardness. For the moment El Taquero for Mexican and Umezushi (celebrating its sixth birthday next week) for Japanese. For me ne'er the twain should meet on one menu.
Peter Street Kitchen, Radisson Blu Edwardian, Peter Street, M2 5GP