SUCH is the welter of new openings Grafene, just six months old, feels like a Manchester old stager but this is its first Christmas and it is celebrating it in some style.
The space it occupies off Chapel Walks was left unoccupied for seven years after the departure of Brasserie Blanc but Paul Roden’s all-day bar/restaurant has revived this tranquil corner of the city centre.
Its A Taste of Christmas Menu, available lunch and dinner, gets the balance of fine dining and festive indulgence just right. Tempted to book ahead its Christmas Day Menu (ToM isn’t keen on all that home turkey roasting and washing up after), we happily road tested its daily pre-Santa offering. Two courses cost £34.50, three £39.50.
Bronze turkey features, naturally, with glazed sprouts, chestnut Anna, parsnip, mulled cranberry and sourdough sauce, but it felt just to early, so beef and halibut were our pick of the four mains.
The Cumbrian beef (above) came as rare as requested, beautifully moist, girolles strewn over a rosemary and garlic fondant, cavalo nero and sprouts providing greenery, blobs of carrot puree adding to the prettiness of the plate.
Halibut was pan seared with a crisp crab cake, again with cavalo nero (or was it just humble kale?) and a slick of potato soaking up a dab of lobster bisque.
For starters, cauliflower and chestnut soup was substantial, subtle and seasonal, the addition of candied cranberries a festive touch, while an artfully presented dish of super-smooth smoked mackerel parfait was given punch by pickled walnut, shallot and horseradish.
To accompany, a chilled bottle of Southern French Pinot Noir, fair value at £30. We passed on puddings. A long Christmas ahead! That Christmas Day menu is one sitting 2pm-5pm, three courses plus canapés and some surprise taster dishes fort £65 a head
Grafene, 55 King Street, Manchester, M2 4LQ. 0161 696 9700 or email [email protected]. Open 8am-11pm, Fri 8am-1am, Sat 9am-1am, Sun 10am-11pm. Check out its range of Christmas and New Year menus here.