CUTTING Room Square has its share of corner bars – Elnecot, its name a homage to ancient Ancoats; Jane Eyre, a tribute to the co-owners’ mum not the Bronte heroine. And now Canto, celebrating a more exotic heritage.
Simon Shaw’s new restaurant even means ‘corner’ in Portuguese and its small plate concept is inspired by Porto-born head chef Carlos Gomes’ childhood cooking at his grandmother’s side. The aim? ‘Somewhere that lets the food… speak’. It’s getting there on the evidence of our sneak preview before its launch on Wednesday, September 19.
A real surprise is that Canto somehow injects the lucent charm of that Portuguese coast into this old industrial neighbourhood. Accentuated by the light, bright colours used throughout – lots of blues combine with exposed concrete and distressed wood tables.
It is a location that will serve well as a cosy oasis. There is something comforting about watching the weather rage past floor to ceiling windows when you are tucked up inside.
Portuguese food is renowned for having big flavours. Canto captures this but the menu also embraces Manchester, making the most of our best ingredients, following the lead of chef/patron Shaw’s original Iberian venture, El Gato Negro.
Chewy sourdough from neighbour Pollen is served with creamy whipped butter and pairs
perfectly with 30 month cured Bísaro DOP ham. The ham melts on the tongue leaving a faint taste of chestnuts, a staple of the pigs’ diet. Brunch dishes further highlight the connection between Manchester and Portugal and the two places’ love of pork (there is even a museum of pork near the northern border with Spain) with black pudding, cured Bísaro pork loin, and smoked sausage on the menu.
Another key component of meals in this Portugal is seafood, which features prominently here. One outstanding dish comes in the form of Octopus Lagarerio, a single tentacle served with roasted potatoes, garlic purée, and pickled baby onions. The slight sweetness of octopus meat marries well with the sharpness of the pickled onions, balancing the dish. Salt cod and onion tempura with tomato broth references Gomes’s past in Japanese restaurant kitchens; Góshò (Porto) and Koya (London).
If you only choose one thing from the menu make it the Pork Belly ‘Bairrada’. The rich taste and melting texture of pork belly is offset by a sharply peppery sauce. Keep things local by pairing with a bottle from the same ancient Bairrada region, known for crisp wines with notes of apple and high quality sparkling natural wine.
The humble pastel de nata is possibly the most recognisable Portuguese export, made from puff pastry and a cinnamon and vanilla infused egg custard. Canto serve an extremely flaky version that brings the distinct sweetness of vanilla to the fore. It is best eaten immediately with either a cup of steaming coffee or savoured alongside a glass of sweet Moscatel as you watch the world pass by Canto’s corner of Ancoats.
The open kitchen echoes that of El Gato Negro and lends itself to a calm vibe. The chefs are busy but not frantic. They are on top of their game. Gomes was previously head chef at Michelin starred Barrafina in London before moving to to work with Shaw in 2017. In a testament to his leadership style, five of his Barrafina kitchen staff made the move with him from London to Manchester to work under him at El Gato Negro and Canto. A chef that inspires such loyalty is one to watch.
Shaw believes that the restaurant will be a success if it becomes a true neighbourhood restaurant, used and loved by the residents of Cutting Room Square and beyond. He wants them to treat Canto as they would their local.
Prices for small plates from £3.50 to £11, desserts from £3 to £10.50. Brunch dishes (below) from £3.50 to £7.50.
