I COULD swear a lobster waved at me from the holding tank as we entered. Off the hook perhaps for the next month as Zelman Meats’ pop-up is centre of attention at Burger & Lobster. Deservedly so on the evidence of a preview of the ‘best of menu it has imported from its London operation wiht outlets in Soho, Finsbury Park and Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge.
Meat takes centre stage in this determinedly casual venture created by Russian oligarch restaurateur Mikhail Zelman of Goodman Steakhouse fame and a roster of other projects including Burger and Lobster. In truth B&L has struggled to fill the 240-cover space in King Street’s Ship Canal House.
A curtain now divides it, hosting the 90-cover pop-up (on until July 30) in the swankier bit. The steaks make the journey to table from the open kitchen across the great divide. The cuts on offer are high grade American Pichana and short rib, Australian strip loin and UK-sourced chateaubriand. All were superb, the Pichana (a bargain £6 per 100g) a revelation.
Black truffle and parmesan chips were the pick of the sides with an honourable mention for roasted courgette and a big hooray, too, for the piquant chimichurri sauce.
Manager Hannah-Beth Naughton told us: “The plan right now is to offer one cut per week plus a special, so perhaps Picanha one week, rib-eye the next and maybe Chateaubriand after that – the idea being you’ll have reason to come back.”
The menu this first week includes baked rock oyster starters at £9 plus, at a quid less, tuna tartar or burrata, then a 600g O’Shea Rib Eye with triple cooked chips for £44 or Smoked Short Rib, sold by weight
There are no plans for a permanent residency. Which is a shame. ToM finds this an attractive addition to a city currently offering gretab succour to carnivores. And the lobsters won’t complain.
Zelman Meat’s pop-up from June 28 to July 30, Wednesday to Saturdays, 5pm-10pm. For reservations email [email protected]. Burger & Lobster, Brown Street (off King Street), Manchester M2 4WU. 0161 832 0222.