THE Lakes were the big Northern winners when the Michelin Guide UK handed out the stars for 2017. As expected The Samling overlooking Windermere retained its and was joined by newcomer The Forest Side at Grasmere and Gilpin near Windermere.
But Manchester (load the loop tape) missed out again on a star, just El Gato Negro joining Heaton Moor’s Brassica Grill among the Bib Gourmand holders. At least their chef Simon Shaw is a happy man: "We're absolutely bowled over by this, and so pleased to have been awarded a Bib again. It's a fantastic achievement for us having only been open nine months."
But it can be scant consolation for Simon Rogan (The French at the Midland) that his former head forager and sous chef at 2-star L’Enclume, Kevin Tickle (below), has proved a meteoric success running the kitchens at newly-opened Forest Side.
Gilpin, which lost its star in 2008, has forged back under new chef Hrishikesh Desai hired after the luxury hotel took the bold step of featuring in BBC 2‘s Alex Polizzi: Chefs on Trial. Desai (above), who gained experience with Paul Bocuse, The French Laundry and Lucknam Park, has turned things around dramatically.
One big Northern regret: the amazing Freemasons at Wiswell near Whalley is ignored while high-profile Tom Kerridge’s gastropub The Hand a and Flowers in Marlow gets two stars.
The good news for Mancs bemoaning their stellar desert – Wiswell and the trio of Lakes country house hotels are a reasonable drive away.
Great Britain & Ireland – the Michelin Guide 2017 (Michelin Guide/Michelin) is published on Thursday, October 6.
View the full awards list.