SILLY us, we’d always associated Albert’s Schloss with getting tanked on beer. Now it turns out their new summer cocktail list is among the best in town. These days you need a theme and they’ve gone all Victorian, hence the parade of Dickensian extras led by Queen Vic herself and Prince Albert, naturally.
As it says on cheeky label: “Inspired by Bohemian pleasure palaces, Dickensian drinking dens of iniquity and the illicit parties of the Victorian Bourgeois”.
Surreal to see see them taking on all comers at ping pong. We declined, grabbing the chance to check out if the amended food menu is still cutting the mustard (ah, the sweet Bavarian mustard accompanying my elongated Bratwurst starter).
But back to the cocktails. We had to kick off with Albert’s Negroni (£8), lured by the presence alongside the Campari and Antica Formula vermouth of the seriously good Granit Gin from some of whose botanicals are sourced from the Bavarian – melissa, gentian root and the delightfully monickered baldmoney.
So far so classic, but the Schlossers have really gone to town on the ‘Cocktails by Royal Decree. Take Ernest the First named after Prince Albert’s dad, the Duke of Saxe-Cobourg and Gotha – it’s a twist on Ernest Hemingway fave, the white rum-based Papa Doble or Queen Victoria’s Rhuby Collins (sic) using gin infused with the rhubarb variety cultivated for the couple at Buckingham Palace.
But height of decadence on the list must be the vintage classic Sazerac (£9) – bullet rye whiskey, Peychaud bitters, Martell VS Cognac, lemon peel and finally, absinthe (and for once you get that distinctive kick.
We forewent the urge to order a £160 a go Das Big Pornstar, where you get your own giant cocktail shaker, bottle of Absolute Vodka, magnum of Prosecco, pineapple, passionfruit and lime. Well, you need three to share that really. The standard Pornstar Martini is £8.50, within the royal coffers.
All this gave us an appetite and it’s good to find the kitchen is still serving hearty Mitteleuropa food but done with a light hand, especially the saucing. A fresh apple and horseradish relish was perfect accompaniment to a Braumeister pork rib-eye (£14). A side of Alpine Sformato (£7), baked truffled, cheesy mash, was gooey and wonderful from a menu that combines quality with value. A royal salute then.
Albert’s Schloss, 27 Peter St, Manchester M2 5QR. 0161 833 4040. Happy hour every day 4pm-7pm, when all Bohemian and fizz cocktails are £5.
