Rosso is a plush place. It really is. The Grade II building, dating back to the heady days of 1899, has ice cream coloured coving which arches overhead as diners click glasses and slurp spaghetti below. And between the leather and polished oak, singers stroll through the audience on a nightly basis, crooning birthday greetings and Italian love songs. Imagine your fantasy Italian restaurant, and youre somewhere close.
My friend Rick came with me as hes always wanted to sample the fabulous surrounds. Nice isnt it? I said as couples proffered engagement rings at the table beside us and businessmen pulled off deals at the adjacent booth. The spectacle of heightened life was being played out before our eyes an experience at least as entertaining as the food.
Co-owned by Manchester United footballer, Rio Ferdinand, hes often seen at one of the white leather booths, tucking into pasta, creamy mozzarella and other athletes favourites. Knowing his audience and Manchester as well as the pitch at Old Trafford, his baby has evolved over the last three years into a rival for other upmarket Italians around town, the kind of places that paparazzi hang around outside and bronzed ladies find irresistible.
Italian restaurants
San Carlo on Deansgate and Stock in the old Stock Exchange, even Piccolino off Albert Square are similarly upmarket Italians in the heart of Manchester. But the difference with Rosso is the celeb factor that Ferdinand brings to the table, and, of course, the upmarket Italian favourites cooked (for the most part) with consistency.
Our aim was to trial the summer menu, which includes starters like lobster claw in chowder dressing with avocado salad and lobster oil (£15.95), linguine with clams (£15.95) as well as lively salads, fine Italian wines and an all-new cocktail list. As a whole, its nothing that will break new ground, but the range is large enough to offer succour to the restaurants many repeat customers and to woo a few new ones too.
Cutting to the main event, we went for double veal. The Vitello alla Sorrentina (milk-fed veal escalope topped with grilled aubergine, basil, tomato and white latte cheese, £18.95) was a squidgy, hearty feast, served slightly pink, while Ricks classic Vitello alla Milanese (veal escalope in bread crumbs, served with spaghetti Napoli, £18.99) was all contrasting textures and Med vibes.
Despite planning to let Rick eat most of it, I devoured a whole, summery-sweet cappuccino panna cotta for dessert (£5.95). One deck was coffee flavour, the other vanilla. It looked as good as it tasted which we paired with a bottle of house Nero DAvola. This reliable if uninspiring red comes in at under £25 but to get the most out of the menu, Id probably go for the value for money Valpolicella Ripassa 2009 (£49.95). If funds were no object, it would have to be one of the Brunellos (from £78.95).
The night was warm when we dropped in, and as the streets heat up, and the sun starts to shine, it reminds me that this is one of those restaurants that seem made for summer. All bustle and ice-laden cocktails, it feels like you could be tucked away in a secret members-only club behind Romes Coliseum, the worries of the western world melting into the night. In short, its a bit of a treat.
Rosso, 43 Spring Gardens, Manchester M2 2BG. Tel: 0161 832 1400, www.rossorestaurants.com