The Lowry is Salfords five-star hotel on the banks of the River Irwell, just a stroll across the suspension bridge from the city centre. With watery views of the river meandering past the front door, its the perfect spot for an early evening drink or two (and a chance to rub shoulders with Rihanna and David Beckham), before tucking into the new Josper Grill menu in the famous restaurant.
We drank a bottle of aged Spanish Ochoa Navarra (around £40) with our meal, which turned out to be a steal at the price. Cocktails had a spring in their step too. The Lowry mixologists have won a shelf-load of awards, and combinations like Rhubarb Crush (a tart / sweet taste, reminiscent of Bakewell Tart) and a fusion of cherries, bourbon and lime transformed wintery flavours into summer standards. The latter, in particular, was like inhaling a bowl of roses.
Irresistible
Fine red wine set the scene for chargrilled meat. Choose from Usan Lobster (from £18 for half), rack of lamb (£25.50), Goosnargh whole chicken for two (£38) or steak (from £15.50 for 275g flat iron). We both went for the veal chop (£26.50 served with baby onion and lardons), served pink and tender with a bone-marrow gravy, and chunky chips jst because it seemed exciting and fitting. This isnt complex cooking. But be warned, it is the kind of food that's irresistible.
Lemony-fresh mushrooms, Parmesan and soft pea shoot sprigs made an immaculate risotto to start with - and theres a shellfish version on the Chefs Grill too, which is a bargain at £24.95 for three courses. Like the tuna tartare, beefed up with details like pickled cucumber, its another perfectly pulled off classic. As is the décor. Around every pastel-green booth, orchids meet whole, dried fruits, giving fertile sheen to the room. Eating here feels decadent.
Speaking of which, its not often you get a whole apple to yourself. We enjoy baked apple custard (£6.50) for dessert, with cored fruit, cinnamon-roasted until toasty, served on a bed of custard. The vanilla crème brulee is an example of the care that goes into every detail, and we rounded our meal off with a dessert wine, made from 100 per cent Grenache grapes. Its among lightest examples of its kind.
Fans, which include the Wests from recent BBC2 documentary, Restaurant Wars, will note that The Lowry kitchen has recently changed direction. The Josper Grill is now central to a menu which focuses on contemporary classics. The risotto is magic, the steak perfect, the tuna with pickled cucumber nigh on heavenly. It is possible that the trend for paring down, as epitomised by world-leading restaurants like Noma and LEnclume, has had an effect on the kitchen at the Lowry, but it's a positive one at that.
The River Bar and Grill, The Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Salford M3 5LH. Tel: 0161 827 4000 www.roccofortehotels.com