8 April 2012

Neil Sowerby I had a sickly sweet dream the other night. Every building in the Northern Quarter had turned into a teashop. Jostling Sugar Junction, North Tea Power and Home Sweet Home for Complete Cuppa Control there was Affleck’s Tea Palace and the Black Dog Tea Rooms. Even Fyg, North Star and, gasp, Koffee Pot were solely cupcake and darjeeling dispensers. I was trapped in the Marble Bar, aghast at hints of lapsang souchong in my pint of Lagonda. Then I woke up.

No, I am not a cuppa fan. I prefer my tannin in a glass of Malbec (how true - ed). I’d rather go into Salford exile – even at the King’s Arms knitting club or Mark Addy’s Tantric Sensual Eating evenings – than take tea in the NQ.

Which is why I welcome the gastronomic transformation of Teacup on Thomas Street following a major refit with a new kitchen and an expansion of covers from 72 to 114. There’s more room to bake their acclaimed cakes (2,000 sold a week) but also to cater for... more savoury customers like me.

Owners DJ Mr Scruff and Gary McClarnan (pictured above) are tea fanatics but are broadening the cafe’s scope by launching a Mains and Wine Menu. Available Wednesday to Saturday from 6.30pm-10pm, the Supper And A Cuppa Menu offers quirky non-sweet treats cooked by a chef with a top end restaurant CV.

Cooking with flair

I took a shine to John Farrar, who has served his time with the legendary Pierre Koffman at London’s Berkeley Hotel and Jeff Baker, whose innovative J Baker Moderne is THE place to dine out in York. It’s unlikely those establishments would countenance his casual Teacup supper plates, but they seem very NQ friendly.

I particularly enjoyed John’s take on shepherd’s pie and his “Koftas with corners” cubed meatballs, mash greens and gravy. Eggs Brigadier (dippies with asparagus and crispy soldiers) and a Fish Finger Feast follow a similar comfort food pattern, using high quality ingredients with a twist. The fish condiments were a spray-on salt and vinegar in granular form. Fun, unlike the Eggplant Fooyung, a sort of baba ghanoush sticky rice omelette, which was odd and unappetising.

More to my taste were Spaghetti Western on Toast, A’rzonni Pasta with chunky toast and fennel jam, and a Rarebit Chutney Toast with some dense dark pickle. Both made splendid snacks but did point up one potential snag – the pricing.

After a complimentary and an innovative starter (which I won’t give away) you are paying £10 for meatie mains and £8 for veggie with desserts at £6, but portions aren’t big. So pursuing a tapas policy, Supper and A Cuppa could rack up. Particularly if you forego the tea for the fine choice of wines from Hanging Ditch. We got a small loaf of Teacup’s own exquisite sourdough to take away for breakfast next day. It that is the norm for evening guests, perhaps that added value swings it.

Whatever, the new venture is a charming addition to an area where more regulation fine dining has been boosted by the recent arrival of Sole and 63 Degrees. Maybe there is life beyond tea and cake.

For reservations contact Teacup on 0161 850 0833 or text 24TEA to 88802. Teacup On Thomas St, 53 Thomas Street, Manchester M4 1NA, www.teacupandcakes.com. Follow Teacup on Twitter @teacupandcakes