Jamie Faulkner Tequila has a bad rep. And until recently I was among its detractors. Iâm betting most peopleâs impressions of tequila are associated with the cheap stuff reserved for shooting - the stuff that leaves a foul taste in your mouth, even if you omit the obligatory salt and lime. To be honest, the âshotâ experience put me off the Mexican spirit for a decade - but things really have changed.
Just five years ago if youâd scanned the bars of the better-stocked establishments in town, I can guarantee there would have only been a limited selection of tequila. Fast-forward to the present day and more and more top-end tequila is making its way across the ocean as consumers outside of Mexico and America are realizing how sophisticated this spirit can be. The aged tequilas, for example, easily rival single malts, cognacs and bourbons in their complexity and flavour profiles.
The heart of the matter
Tequila is made from the hearts of the cactus-like blue agave plant and produced in the state of Jalisco, Mexico. The agave hearts, which can weigh as much as 45kg, are steamed then mashed with water before being fermented. The resulting liquid is distilled and bottled or aged for various lengths of time. When aging tequila, producers might use barrels that once contained bourbon, wine or scotch in order to impart different flavours to the base spirit. Combine these flavours with the distinctive agave taste of tequila and youâve got a diverse product, which sits comfortably between âwhiteâ and âbrownâ spirits.
So what should you look out for when choosing tequila? Look out for 100% agave or agave azul on the label of which youâll usually only encounter three types of in the UK.
Blanco, for example, is usually bottled immediately after distillation or aged for less than 2 months and clear to straw-coloured in appearance. Reposado is aged for at least two months but no longer than a year in primarily oak barrels giving a darker appearance and a smoother more developed flavour. Finally, anejo is aged for over a year but no more than three in small oak barrels giving a complex flavour and dark brown hue.
So if you want to break free from the salt, lime, and shots, three straight-sippers I recommend are El Jimador Reposado, Tapatio Reposado and Don Juilo Anejo
Top three tequila cocktails in the city
Beginner: for the tequila initiate, why not try Sandinistaâs âZapatistaâ. This is a tequila-based take on an espresso martini using Patron silver and Patron XO Cafe. The tequila is subtle enough that a newcomer wonât be put off but holds its own against the coffee background. (Sandinista, Old Bank Street, Manchester, M2 7 PF. Tel: 0161 832 9955)
Intermediate: wanna go a bit further? Try Corridorâs take on a âFoolâs Goldâ. Iâm not sure if itâs still on the menu but I can testify that the bar staff will happily make you one...or three. This is not lengthened as much as the Zapatista so except more tequila but balanced harmoniously with chocolate and orange (or at least thatâs what I get!). (Corridor, 6 Barlowâs Croft, Salford, M3 5DY. Tel: 0161 832 6699 - pictured above)
Advanced: if you can handle a real tequila hit then opt for The Gaslampâs Margarita. The classic combination of tequila, cointreau (or other orange liqueur) and lime is lifted by using a very good reposado tequila and increasing the level of booziness. If you like this, youâll be hooked! (The Gaslamp, 50 Bridge Street, Manchester, M3 3BW. Tel: 0161 478 1224)