White tablecloths. Polished cutlery. A pianist. I’m at the The Lowry Hotel’s restaurant The River Bar and Grill, and it doesn’t get much more ‘fine dining’ than this.
Fine dining’s been getting the hard shoulder recently. Of the many new restaurants launched this year, the majority favour “relaxed fine-dining,” where tablecloths are out, there’s a no bookings policy and waiters perch on neighbouring a chairs while they read out the specials.
So how does the River Bar and Grill compete with this new generation?
It’s the timelessness of fantastic service. There’s something wonderful about a restaurant manager who will not only remember your name, but what you had for your starter last month. Huseyin Bozkurt is a natural, who expertly balances fine dining with relaxed, friendly service.
The best example of this is The Lowry Hotel’s Wine Dinners.
The Wine Dinners, which take place once a month, showcase a certain region or type of wine. They are often presented by the wine producers or, in their absence, the equally informative Bozkurt.
The October Wine Dinner celebrated the Rioja wines of the Bodegas Riojanas, whose acclaimed winery is situated in Cenicero, at the heart of the Rioja Alta.
The first course, gin cured salmon and rye bread crisp is served with the barrel aged fermented blanco, a perfect pairing, which provided a mellow background to the juniper and dill of the salmon.
Main course is a Lamb with chestnut rosti, squash puree and rosemary jus, matched with the plummy Monte Real Reserva 2008.
Like every good host, Bozkurt has a secret weapon up his sleeve. After the main course, wine glasses are replaced with cups and saucers as guests are treated to a pot of vintage tea.
Picked in 1974, this rare tea from southeast China is aged to encourage a complex, soft smokiness.
To end the evening, Bozkurt goes out on a limb and pairs a sticky toffee apple Tarte Tatin with a red wine – the Monte Real Gran Reserva 2006. The red fruit of the wine is a welcome contrast the sweetness of the dessert.
As the last of the bottles are poured into the guest’s glasses, there’s a real community beginning to form. The guests, who started out talking quietly between themselves, are now chatting openly across the table. The group next to us start discussing after-party options.
The Wine Dinners shine because of Bozkurt’s innovative wine pairing and classic service -It’s approach to dining that will never go out of style.
For a list of the upcoming Lowry Wine Dinners, see their website here for more details. We advise booking in advance, as they fill up quickly.
