Thomas restaurant and bar is two years old, and theyâve got a new menu to celebrate. Tucking in with co-owner, Yvonne G. Rybka Erskine last week, she explained that she thinks the new dishes are their best, simplest and freshest yet. And having tried the tender-soft lamb shank and towering strawberry meringue, I think Iâm finally on board.
The note of reticence youâll detect here is down to Thomasâs cooking being a bit hit and miss in the past. Based in the Northern Quarter (but minus the âquirkyâ cool vibe that typifies this part of town) the 100-seater restaurant has a tricky remit. Bistro-style food is their thing; proper balanced meals that you could eat any day of the week. The kind of food that makes you feel good and well, rather than just fed. And itâs a style of cooking thatâs fit for purpose, having emerged from bed and board houses in Paris, where owners would serve simple, tasty food like stews, pates and baguettes to crowds at a time.
Drawing on the classic French foundations of slow cooking, tasty stocks and quality ingredients, the kitchen team at Thomas appear to have mastered this difficult cuisine. And the result is a menu with loads of dishes you want to eat, rather than just one or two.
Crumb-coated poached duck egg
Starters rove across the palate. Pan-fried chicken livers with Tabasco and Worcester sauce on toast (£5.50) is a highlight alongside the almost citrusy lobster bisque (£6.95). There are favourites like ham hock terrine with 1980s-inspired melba toast (£5.95), as well as artichoke risotto served with a crumb-coated duck egg â not an easy trick to pull off (£6.50/£11.95).
Savoury flavours continue with mains like slow-roasted chicken breast, served in a simple fennel and puy lentil stock (£14.95), and tender-soft lambshank, with redcurrants, sweet Marsala wine reduction and creamy potato Dauphinoise (£15.95).
Desserts showcased just the right amount of ambition, pushing classic formulas to the edge of their comfort zone, not beyond. A hand-crafted chocolate, strawberry and cream éclair (£5.95), for example, let the farm-fresh ingredients do the talking.
As well as the new summer menu, Thomas has just launched an âafter workâ club which runs from 4pm-7pm Monday to Friday. This includes deals and offers on wine, cocktails, beer and bar snacks. You can get a mini pizza and a glass of wine for £7 for example, or a Peroni for £2.50. Theyâve also got a private club room upstairs above the main bar with itâs own bar available for hire. Having attended a couple of functions within, itâs a proper party den, with big sofas and great views of the NQ.
Thomas Bar and Restaurant, 49-51 Thomas Street, Northern Quarter, M4 1NA. Tel: 0161 839 7033. www.thomasrestaurant.co.uk.
