ToM gets a taste of Birmingham

14 July 2009

Lisa Higginson

It might not be top on the list of gastro-destinations to visit before you die, but Birmingham is home to a host of restaurants – three of which hold Michelin stars - that have put it on the foodie map. So with that in mind, the ToM team decided to check out the city’s culinary scene at the Taste of Birmingham.

The event in London left a big impression when we visited last month, I for one am still dreaming about The Grill at The Dorchester’s stunning seared scallop dish with sardine pie and cauliflower puree. But while our expectations of the event’s Midland version were not quite so high, we still hoped for a good experience at Edgbaston’s lovely Cannon Hill Park. And we got it.

As we arrived, the clouds parted and the sun began to shine over the event. There was plenty to peruse as a variety of different producers and exhibitors displayed their products. Fudges showcased its sweet and savoury biscuits, GU Puds offered a selection of delicious chocolate treats, Mr Simms Olde Sweet Shop gave visitors a taste of their childhood with an array of old fashioned confectionary and Bonne Maman displayed its new range of French biscuits and cakes.

Meanwhile, samples of tasty game sausage, from Manor Farm Game, 24-month aged Parmesan from Discover the Origin, zingy barbecue sauces from Jack Daniels’ new range and cheeses from Snowdonia Cheese Company all went down well as we ate our way around the event.

Being that Taste of Birmingham is designed to celebrate the city’s restaurants, there were 17 of them cooking up creations from their menus. I was disappointed to discover that two of the Michelin-starred eateries - Purnell’s and Turner’s - were only appearing as guests on one of the days so I couldn’t sample their superior fayre. But I did, however, take my taste buds to Simpsons Restaurant to sample their starred cuisine and tucked into carpaccio of sashimi tuna with summer fruits, basil and verjus syrup – a dish which buzzed with flavour. Slices of strawberries, nectarines and peaches were perfectly paired with the basil, although the sweet syrup was perhaps a little overpowering for the delicate tuna.

My favourite dish of the day was from the award-winning Itihaas Indian Restaurant. Paapri chaat was a dish of crispy pastry discs topped with chick peas, onions and potatoes sprinkled with chaat masala, paprika and coriander and served with yoghurt and tamarind chutney. This was quite simply a taste sensation. Each mouthful was a discovery of flavour and a journey of different textures that worked together effortlessly. After the spicy hit, I calmed my taste buds back down with a scoop of Farmer Gosden’s delicious Jersey pistachio ice cream.

Real ales, bespoke wines from around the world and Pimms were also in abundance and demonstrations and cook-offs provided entertainment alongside live music. Although it didn’t quite leave a lasting impression, the event delivered, as promised, a taste of Birmingham and confirmed its place on the country’s culinary map.

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