Manchester has three types of Thai restaurant. There are your fussy, old-fashioned joints like Koh Samui and your casual snack houses like Phet Palin. Chaophraya, however, has a special place in my heart, thanks to its âmiddle wayâ. Between the faffy lace of a traditional Thai and the jungle-chic the casual diner, this central restaurant stands out like a beacon of chic: the way Thai restaurants could and should be. And itâs popular too. Amid textures of cotton, brass and bronze, both floors of the central restaurant were booked out when I visited last week.
I sat on the ground floor among business people (they do a lot of corporate events here with cooking classes and meals included) and couples schmoozing on dates. The barman suggested a blood-orange bellini to start, which was a little sweet for my tooth but a perfect prelude to menu consultation which I suggest diners devote some time to. There are starters, soups, spicy salads, curries, stir fries, âmainsâ, seafood, chefâs specials, vegetable sides to choose from. Iâd probably prefer a bit less choice to be honest, but thereâs something for everyone from a vegetarian mixed platter of starters for £6.50 (corn cakes, deep fried veg, veg spring rolls and more) to crazy-hot melon curries, such as âPaew Wan Pollamaiâ (£9.95).
We shared âGung Yang BBQâ prawns with pineapple, cherry tomato and courgette to start (£9.95). It was a fresh, simple dish, that gave us the taste for more, and reminded me of street food Iâve tried in Thailand. Having been to that part of the world a few times now, the lively cooking never fails to amaze. Fresh herbs, sauces, chickenâs feet and flavours spill from hot pans and buckets on every street corner while hunks of lemongrass, ginger, garlic and chilli are served pretty much whole out there. I like hardcore lemongrass sticks as much as the next person but I was relieved that Chaophraya prepare their veg more delicately.
As a main course, I ordered âGaeng Paâ (£9.95). This intense Thai âjungleâ curry (not sure what that means) was filled with green beans, peppers, baby corn, prawns and a lot of birdâs eye chillis. The menu suggests that the spice of this dish will burn extra calories. I suggest that it will clear the sinuses and leave a warm glow about the belly. With its pared down flavours and lack of creamy coconut, it is one for the Thai food enthusiast rather than novice. Across the table, Laura had a classic red curry with chicken. This was so creamy that it was almost a satay consistency (£9.95) and as rich as that peanut sauce in flavour, with hints of shrimp, lemongrass, garlic and more. Neil, meanwhile, tried a seafood take on Pad Andaman Samunpri (£15) which was similar to mine, a kind of simple, straightforward dish, laden with holy basil, fish sauce and cooked to order.
In retrospect we couldâve gone for a noodle or rice dish as well as the portions of deliciously sticky rice, but as seafood and spice enthusiasts, our collection of hot dishes were more than enough. To drink, two bottles of Italian house white from the international wine list were able companions for the spicy food at this charming restaurant in the city centre. Perfect for entertaining clients, or just a cosy night out with friends, with itâs slinky corners, and soft lighting, this is a classy spot and highly recommended.
19 Chapel Walks, M2 1HN. Tel: 0161 8328342 www.chaophraya.co.uk
