VEGAN and lavish, not adjectives that sit comfortably. So Vertigo, new plant-based cafe in the Royal Exchange building, we expect to be on the minimal side and it is. It’s not aiming to be a destination eaterie – the ethical food offering big bowls of stews and curries, hearty salads, smoothies and breakfasts with take-out options.
The 25-cover restaurant occupies the former Maneas Greek restaurant on Cross Street with affordable dishes ranging from £5 to £10. Close to the Royal Exchange Theatre, so expect a pre-theatre menu, but no vegan exclusivity. Owner Michael Jebelli says that Vertigo will sit on the more casual end of the spectrum and will be a welcoming space for everyone - not just vegans.
"Vertigo is aimed at all people who are conscious about their meat consumption, not necessarily just vegans," he told us. "A lot of people are making a conscious effort to reduce how much meat they eat, whether it's for health reasons or environmental reasons. I promise that you won't miss meat if you eat here, even if you are normally a meat eater!”
It occupies quite a tight space – a touch antiseptic white tiling and natural wood. Food is a bit Ottolenghi-lite, the likes of Persian-style aubergine stew and Moroccan apricot tagine, coffee comes from ManCoCo, beers from First Chop, and bread from Trove.
Vertigo, 18 Cross Street, Manchester M2 7AE.
