IF any city knows how to throw a party it’s Manchester. Barely a week after the mega launch bash for Refuge by Volta it was time to welcome Hispi in the former Jem & I premises in Didsbury village. From a vast crowd in the city centre to a suburban celebration of crowdfunding, very different buy each proving fun and full of promise as a destination.
They had cleared the decks for the Hispi ‘thank you to our supporters’ party, increasing the feeling of it being a family affair (without the squabbles). That was confirmed by stacks of pictures of chef/proprietor Gary Usher’s team on the wall leading up to the mezzanine gallery. Yes and staff from his first two bistros, Burnt Truffle in Heswall and AA 'Restaurant of the Year' Sticky Walnut in Chester, had turned out in force along with many of the customers they cook for or serve.
So there was Adam Tomlinson, maitre d’ at the Walnut – a valiant effort the day before he was setting off on the Action Against Hunger Ethiopia Trek, while at the pass was the equally boyish Richard Sharples (below, second right), once of Aumbry and now in charge of the Hispi open kitchen.
I caught up with the paterfamilias himself, Gary Usher, manning the Green Egg barbecue, which was responsible for some amazing smoked pork neck fillet served with rocket and green sauce. He told me: “I don’t want this to be a special occasion place. I want it to be the kind of neighbourhood restaurant you pop into on the way home. Our prices reflect this. As with Sticky Walnut and Burnt Truffle I want it to feel like you are walking into someone’s home.”
Look around and you realise Hipsi (it’s named after a cabbage variety and the green external walls reflect this) does have that homely look inside. The decor features cabinets crafted from old Indian window frames, and tiles found in a nearby salvage yard, while a mirror scrawled all over with names is a thank you to all Hispi’s Kickstarter backers, who pledged £50,000 towards the project, originally planned for Chorlton.
The crowdfunding campaign has been helped by Usher’s high profile social media presence. Face to face he’s warmer than expected and it’s reflected in the staff loyalty he inspires. All this would be as nothing if the food wasn’t so good from some inspired seasonal mains to simple things like the best hand cut truffle and parmesan chips you’ll ever find. Check out the sample Didsbury menus via this link. I like the look of the £5 kid’s menu and the two courses for £15, three for £18 lunch offer. And the wine list is a belter.
Be warned Hispi doesn’t officially open until Friday, October 7. They are offering punters 50 per cent off on Wednesday and Thursday, October 5 and 6; most evening tables have gone but lunch slots are available. You can book here on a rudimentary website, while the posh one is being built.
Hispi, 1C School Lane, Didsbury, Manchester M20 6RD. Tel: 0161 445 3996. @HispiBistro
