Arriving at Eastzeast Riverside, the striking Punjabi restaurant located on the bank of the river Irwell, it was as if we had travelled through space and time to a sunnier clime. The welcoming host, dressed in traditional Indian costume (with the addition of a Burberry scarf to ward off the biting Manchester wind) and the exotic palm trees on the restaurant floor made it easy to leave the dark, cold and very wet Manchester at the door.
The Riversideâs reputable sister restaurant (located on Princess Street) was awarded the Manchester Food and Drink Festivalâs acclaimed Restaurant of the Year accolade in 2006, so I had high expectations for the Raja brothers new venture.
The meal started with the obligatory popadoms and a choice of seven accompaniments; tomato chutney, garlic pickle and mixed pickle making a welcome appearance alongside the standard quartet of taste-while-you-order condiments.
For starters, the chef appeared in person to serve us with a sizzling Mixed Meat Platter to share. It included Chicken Boti, Chicken Wings and Meat Samosa. The best of the spread was the Massala Fish; a fillet of fresh cod, marinated and deep fried, which was cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection.
The main courses were swift to follow; I had chosen the Karahi Keema Matter described on the menu as minced lamb cooked with onions, garlic, ginger, tomatoes, peas and spices. As it arrived, the old adage about never judging a book by its cover was entirely appropriate (it had the uncanny resemblance of a school dinner cottage pie) but it tasted divine with a lingering fresh aftertaste supplied by the peas and coriander.
My partner chose the Karahi Chicken Dopiaza, which he must have enjoyed because he practically licked the bowl clean. We had pilau rice and a garlic and coriander naan on the side, the latter of which was possibly the nicest I have ever tasted.
The dessert menu was a pleasant surprise and one that I wish Iâd saved room for. There was a good mix of traditional Indian sweets alongside the more familiar English treats and the fact that I was full caused my partner a five minute dilemma while he weighed up the ice-cream profiteroles against the Gulab Jamun (Indian milk ball with ice-cream). He eventually settled on a chocolate fudge cheesecake which was a rich and beautifully presented dish that rounded off the meal perfectly.
Opening Times: 5pm â midnight every day
Tel: 0161 834 3500
Website: www.eastzeast.com
Address: Blackfriars Street
Deansgate
Manchester
M3 5BQ