By Neil Sowerby
I AM a sucker for a ‘hideaway’ specialist bar within a bar and the highlight of the ‘new’ Bluu is definitely the basement Smithfield Social, dispensing its own 1920s influenced smoky cocktails in appropriate surroundings – beaten metal walls and mustard leather booths.
It’s all part of the Northern Quarter veteran’s self-proclaimed ‘Re-Bluu-venation’ that has kicked out the low level red lights and 50s pin-up event posters in an expensive modern retro makeover that sets it apart from all the shabby chic rivals in the neighbourhood.
None of those bars were around when Bluu arrived 11 years ago – before then of an evening the only signs of life came from the Market Restaurant and tumbleweed drifted down Thomas Street in a world deprived of hipster beards and craft beer.
That first Bluu spawned other baby Bluus, but the owners, Marstons, have retrenched to concentrate on the Manchester original. Hence the much-needed refurb and the arrival of a Southern States style barbecue smoker. Hence the likes of Beavertown Gamma Ray IPA and Smog Rocket craft beer in cans.
If it all sounds a bit catch up (or should that be ketch up), following the hand-rubbed, long smoked, home pickled, pork pulled path forged by Southern 11, Red’s True, Solita and the like, that shouldn’t count against it if it’s done well.
On the evidence of our enormous trial feast, it is – with the exception of some eagerly anticipated Beef brisket (£14) that could have doubled for shoe leather. Beef ribs with a dark and sticky honey and bbq sauce were much more toothsome. Chilli and caramel chicken wings (small plate, £6) were a tangy delight while parmesan and truffle, sour cream fries (£3.50) and a mustard potato salad (£2.75) were intense, moreish sides.
Home-made sauces – chipotle mayo, bastardo, South Carolina – follow the smoky remit, which leads nicely to the basement lair of Smithfield Social bar manager Paul Lovett (known as Tiki Tony across the NQ) who has been given full rein to add a smoked element to some classic cocktails. Just 10 of them, which you can only get in this section. Aztec Old-Fashioned, Gingerbead Man-Hattan, Monsieur Basil, Gentleman’s Tipple – the names alone are enticing, the prices reasonable at between £8.25 and £8.95.
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We were scared off by the imminent commencement of a speed dating event (it looks a fine space for a private party) but intend to work our way through them another day. My name’s on No 8, the Queen Mary, Tony’s take on a Bloody Mary. For it he infuses Absolut Vodka with strips of grilled, smoked bacon, then blends a double shot of this with black pudding puree before adding a secret spice mix and a splash of tomato juice. After a slow shake it’s presented on a wooden board with a hickory smoked celery stick, homemade horseradish sauce and a fresh fennel pork scratching.
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Playful, inventive stuff that makes Bluu a real contender once more in a crowded bar scene.
Bluu, Smithfield Market Buildings, corner of Thomas Street and High Street, M4 1BD. 061 839 7195.
