Neil Sowerby
ANTHONY Fielden is one of the city’s unsung culinary heroes – producing beautifully balanced dishes from impeccably sourced ingredients. It makes the Northern Quarter Restaurant a beacon among the burgerlands. I particularly like his delicate way with fish. It was touch and whether I plumped off the a la carte mains for his John Dory with potted shrimps and capers, but the Scottish Halibut won out. This can be a dry fish, but not this time; saffron can dominate a sauce as delicate as beurre blanc, not this time. Flaky white fish, wilted greens, new potatoes made a perfect summer dish. It was partnered by a limited edition Kiwi take on a classic Spanish white, all melon and peach with a shot of limey acidity. The ‘Te Awa’ Leftfield Albarino from Gisborne in the North Island is £7.70 a glass (£32 a bottle) and worth every penny.
The Northern Quarter Restaurant has made a speciality of wine themed gourmet dinners. The next, on Wednesday, May 27, is called ‘Pinot People’ and offers six enticing courses of food and drink for £60 a head. Expect oysters with shallot and passionfruit vinegar, Brixham crab and avocado millefeuille, crusted fillet of Middlewhite pork, guinea fowl and foie gras terrine, rack of Cheshire lamb and Sachertorte. The accompanying Pinots are Gris and Noir from across the globe. Call the number below to book. The event starts at 8pm.
The Northern Quarter Restaurant, 108 High Street, Manchester, M4 1HQ. 0161 832 7115, http://www.tnq.co.uk