• FIRE, FLAVOUR AND FINNESSE: Manchester's KAJI takes Japanese small plates to the next level

FIRE, FLAVOUR AND FINNESSE: Manchester's KAJI takes Japanese small plates to the next level

23 February 2025 by Rhiannon Ingle

Earlier this month, we headed to luxury Japanese restaurant KAJI to see for ourselves exactly what their new 'fire-based dining' experience was like.

KAJI, which is the first new opening of the MUSU rebrand, proudly states it 'isn’t your typical restaurant', offering up diners a unique atmosphere 'where the thrill of fire-driven cooking meets the pulse of high-energy music in a space unapologetically alive'.

Burnt Mandarin and Sesame Espresso

Dubbed a 'full-throttle experience for the bold, the adventurous, and those who crave something extraordinary' - we wanted to see what all the hype was about.

Nestled on Bridge Street, making neighbours with Stow and Dishoom, one of the first things we noticed about KAJI is the sushi counter, where guests can sit and watch the talented chefs at work giving you an opportunity to catch a glimpse of the craftsmanship of the menu long before the first piece of food touches your lips.

Steven Smith et al

A bit further down the restaurant and you're greeted by a roaring open kitchen, fronted by chef Steven Smith, where the meticulous preparation of each dish is a performance in its own right striking a cracking balance between precision and artistry.

We started off the evening affair with two recommendations from KAJI's extensive cocktail menu to check out the bar's take on 'bold Asian influences' which span far and wife, yet always remain 'anchored in tradition'.

The pass

The Sesame Espresso was a fantastic take on the go-to happy hour cocktail offering a nutty twist on the Espresso Martini complete with Haku vodka, sesame syrup, a shot of espresso, vanilla and a mist of sesame.

Meanwhile, the Burnt Mandarin offered a zesty start to the meal. Also made with the signature Haku vodka, this took the definition of 'spritz' to a whole new level. The burnt mandarin syrup made way for a lively flavour to kick off with while the prosecco and soda water kept things morishly crisp.

Onto the meal now and we were buzzing to try out a little bit of everything, starting the food side of the evening with the salmon sashimi which came with all the theatrics that perfectly matched the flair of the venue.

Salmon sashimi

It was served on a glass platter with dry ice cascading from underneath it and took the grand total of about two seconds to be demolished - perfectly melting away in your mouth. Also, whoever came up with the dipping sauce pairing for this needs a medal.

We then tried out the mixed charcoal-grilled mushroom maki rolls bustling with truffle alongside the native lobster maki served with truffle mayonnaise which were equally ace but it was the soft shell crab maki served with a healthy dipping pot of teriyaki which really set the tone for the rest of the meal - bold, tender and adventurous.

Sushi galore

After checking out some star players from the sushi menu, we were convinced to try out the fried Louët-Feisser oysters served with oyster mayo, smokey house bonito hot sauce and fresh finger lime. Beautifully presented and full of flavour, we could have easily ordered about four more servings of these.

Up next were the boneless slow-cooked sticky chicken wings served alongside a Thai green mousse and katsu curry sauce which were good but, if you had to make me choose between those and the other side we got - the spicy miso glazed cabbage - the latter would win every time.

Fried oysters

Expertly braised and with flavour packed into every layer, this is an example of KAJI doing what it does best: elevating otherwise humble ingredients to an indulgent and luxurious dish full to the brim with taste. The burnt onion puree married perfectly with the buttery cabbage leaves and the spicy miso brought it all together like one big delicious saucy bow.

Onto the bigger plates now and while we were gutted the bluefin tuna with sancho pepper sauce was sold out, we were excited to try out two other seafood dishes, both of which were charred over Japanese coals and English oak right in front of us. 

Chicken wings

The cod loin kiev served with smoked garlic and cep mushroom was an interesting take on the hearty classic packing a seriously umami punch with every bite.

The wild sea bass served with champagne, white miso and caviar was easily one of the most complex dishes we dug into flavour-wise. The fillet was perfectly enveloped in a crispy skin sprinkled with dried seaweed which offered a salty punch to the delicate bass which nicely complimented the miso sauce - a clear KAJI favourite in the ingredient department. And the caviar pearls, the cherry on top of an already super indulgent dish, added that little bit of extra flair KAJI is all about.

Cod loin kiev

At this point, we were positively parched and saw fit to order some more cocktails from the bar. The toasty Black Sesame, which was made with Toki whiskey, black sesame syrup, umeshu and activated charcoal, was a very intriguing option and definitely one for anyone who prefers a deeper, richer tipple to sip on. 

Sea bass served with champagne, white miso and caviar

The Mango Citrus was understandably one of the most-ordered cocktails we saw surrounding diners drinking and for good reason. Made with that smooth Haku vodka again, the sweetness of the mango puree was cut through by the tart lime juice while the ginger beer paved the way for a proper good tang.

Sticky toffee pudding

After having a lovely natter with one of the servers, all of whom were super lovely may I add, we were persuaded to finish off the meal with a sweet treat and there was no better way to conclude the evening than with the medjool date sticky toffee pudding made with a miso caramel sauce and toasted sushi rice ice-cream, the latter of which was insanely good. Served in beautiful crockery, as was all the dishes, this was a cracking end to a dining experience like no other. 

Find out more about KAJI here.

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