Descend the glass triangle at the top of Deansgate and you’re suddenly far from the Mancunian grey as Australasia’s subterranean space restaurant effortlessly delivers that beautiful sun-kissed fantasy of dining in a faraway land with all its creamy stone and low amber-glowing light.
But the real heat comes from the kitchen.
We rolled deep into small plate territory to start. Padron peppers (£7) arrived charred just right, with a sweet miso-yuzu dressing. The kombu salt? A stroke of savoury genius. The crispy nori chips (£6) were light and delicate, scooped generously through a surprisingly punchy green hummus - it was mezze done in an exciting way without too much theatrics.
Seafood is where Australasia really flexes its muscles. For starters, we opted for the tuna, shrimp and salmon ceviche (£16) which was a full-on riot of texture and brightness, thanks to that sweet roasted garlic which cut through the silky fish like a scalpel through butter. Meanwhile, toasted macadamia brought the crunch.
The table's favourite, however, was no doubt the lobster popcorn (£19) which was succulent, crisp and dangerously moreish. We dunked each glorious nugget into a sudachi and lime aioli we shamelessly considered pocketing.
Argentinian prawns (£18) with coconut satay brought grilled, caramelised edges and a sauce that should be sold by the bottle. And if you’re thinking the tuna tartare (£16) couldn’t top all this? Wrong. The crisp reggio lattice gave the melt-in-mouth fish a perfect perch, while lime dashi and a dainty dollop of oscietra caviar pushed it into decadent territory.
From here, we moved onto the big guns.
Steamed seabass (£26) arrived nestled in a sweet-spicy pineapple red curry, balanced beautifully. It was, in the best way possible, the perfect plate of comfort food - but served with a Thai lilt. But it was the gochujang miso black cod (£42) which was a total scene-stealer. Glossy, flaking, caramelised at the edges with that signature Korean pepper sauce giving it the kind of complexity you'd expect in a tasting menu.
The Teriyaki salmon (£19) was far more restrained but nonetheless kept us all very satisfied. Meanwhile, the slow-cooked short rib (£32) was beyond tender and wrapped up in a truly addictive sweet umami glaze all while resting on top of a super luxurious wasabi mash. This was Australasia doing what it does best, indulgence with total finesse.
The veggie sides were clearly no afterthought, either. Hands down, the green papaya salad (£9) was the table's favourite choice. Crunchy, sharp and refreshingly fiery. The charred tenderstem & asparagus (£9) brought the smokiness, while the miso aubergine (£7) was sticky, rich, and cleverly topped with amaranth popcorn for texture. Even the kombu salt frites (£7) got the luxe treatment, slathered in truffle mayo.
And to finish? Well, we simply couldn't have left without ending the meal on a sweet note.
Naturally, we opted for the raved-over chocolate fondant (£12) and this did not disappoint. The richness of it was effortlessly lifted by a nutty, earthy black sesame ice cream that made it feel fresh and not just another choc-lava cliché.
Australasia knows its crowd and what they want: luxury, Instagrammable plates and consistently tasty offerings. While prices do hover at the higher end, it’s money well spent when the food hits like this.
Must-Order Dishes: Gochujang Miso Black Cod, Tuna Tartare, Lobster Popcorn.
Head Chef Lucie Sainerova (previously Exec Head Chef Novikov International and Raffles International), whose expertise and creative vision makes her one of the UK’s most sought after culinary talents says: "Australasia has always been a special place and I’m excited to bring a fresh perspective to its next chapter. The new menu will celebrate the bold, vibrant flavours of the Pacific Rim, with a real focus on open-flame cooking. Guests can expect refined and creative plates, made for sharing and enjoy an atmosphere that’s as immersive as the food itself. We are preserving Australasia's soul while giving it an entirely new body and spirit."
Find out more here.