• REVIEW: Pip by Chef Mary-Ellen McTague delivers fine substance with style
  • REVIEW: Pip by Chef Mary-Ellen McTague delivers fine substance with style
  • REVIEW: Pip by Chef Mary-Ellen McTague delivers fine substance with style

REVIEW: Pip by Chef Mary-Ellen McTague delivers fine substance with style

9 May 2025 by Rhiannon Ingle

The newly opened Pip restaurant, located in the über cool Treehouse Hotel, has quickly become one of Manchester’s most exciting eateries. 

Led by Chef Mary-Ellen McTague, taking just two steps into the restaurant leaves you with the certainty that you're able to have an experience unlike any other meal out. Pip effortlessly marries eco-chic interiors with quietly ambitious cooking and, let's just say, the hype around this joint did not disappoint.

Pip

Small plates, big punches

We started light with the Carlingford Oysters, served either Natural or swimming in a surprisingly addictive Kimchi Liquor (£4). We opted for the latter which packed quite the funky, saline slap that set us up nicely for the more filling Split Pea Chips with Mushroom Ketchup (£5). They arrived crispy and golden, stacked up in somewhat of a Jenga tower. The umami-rich mushroom dip added a smart, earthy depth - sort of like a grown-up chip-and-dip situation.

Pip

Moving onto the slightly more substantial plates, the Smoked Mackerel (£11) is the sort of dish that makes Pip shine. A creamy mustard base partners beautifully with the oily fish while the rhubarb ketchup (we noticed the restaurant has everything but your bog-standard Tommy K) cuts through with a welcomed acidity.

Pip

And, if you're a meat-eater, you've got to try the Squab Ham (£10) served under mustard leaf alongside an unexpected yet welcome shot of lemon thyme granita. Experimental, exciting, ace.

Mains with gravitas

For mains, the Herb-Fed Chicken (£28) feels like Sunday roast reimagined in a more delicate light. The leg meat pie, though mini, is the show-stealer here. It's golden, flaky, and generously packed, while the accompanying celeriac and rhubarb add intrigue to an otherwise comforting dish. Think of it as an elevated British classic, served up with a wink.

Pip

The Grilled Dayboat Fish (£26), which lay in a stunning bergamot and cockle broth, is an equally confident menu star-player. Tender and smoky, we could eat this every single day.

Pip

Sweet notes

Desserts continue the theme of familiar-with-a-twist. We opted for the Flourless Chocolate Cake (£9) which is dense, fudgy and - when paired with the fennel cream and pistachio-white chocolate crumb - it becomes the perfect course to end any meal on.

Pip

Meanwhile, the Treacle Tart (£9) was an equally comforting way to end the chapter - buttery, sticky, and rounded out with a delicate Earl Grey and bergamot finish.

Pip

Cocktails galore

It's immediately clear that the drinks at Pip are no afterthought. The Garden Margarita (£13) is a fresh standout, with Olmeca Altos tequila, celery, and chilli while the Seasonal Cobbler (£10) offers a gentler path  served with Amontillado sherry, bubbles, and mystery fruit that changes with the calendar.

But it was the Honeypot Negroni (£12.50) that stayed in our minds: dark fruit, herbs, and a bittersweet warmth that makes you want to linger about for another.

Verdict

Pip is all about clever flavour pairings and an eye for detail served up against the backdrop of stunning interiors, friendly service and a cracking atmosphere. Whether you're there for oysters and cocktails at golden hour or a full flight through the menu, Pip is definitely a very much so welcomed addition to the city's restaurant scene and we can't wait to go back.

Find out more here.
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