STEVE Pilling builds his empires quietly. After his departure from Manchester’s legendary Chop Houses he created Damson in Heaton Moor, then went double Damson with a glossier version in MediaCity, where he then created a buzzy pub called Dockyard; then it was double Dockyard with a sibling on the Left Bank, Spinningfields (a third is on the way on First Street). Lower profile projects have included Liquorice cocktail bar in the city centre (formerly Destino). There’s been talk, too, of a new Japanese whisky bar called Tokyo Joe’s in the Northern Quarter alongside his subterranean Guilty By Association cocktail venture.
On a recent visit to Damson Heaton Moor to check out their terrific value three course set menu I would like to have quizzed him on the health of empire but Steve was at choir practice. Perhaps he’s buying the church. As it was, he had asked for a sample tray of beers from the Moor Top across the road to be brought across for our delectation. Yes, he’s taken over that feeble modern local and given it a proper pub food menu.
Proper food at a more elevated level has been the consistent Damson offering, masterminded by chef/business partner Simon Stanley. Heaton Moor has long been considered the perfect neighbourhood restaurant but with Brassica not far enough making its own bistro statement it’s as well not to rest on your laurels. Hence that set menu – three starters, three mains, two puds and a plate of three cheeses with grapes, chutney and biscuits. Two courses for £20, three for £25.
My pistou soup with basil pesto was refreshing but lacked the sunny, herbal intensity of the Nicois original. It was a very un-Mediterranean murk out on the urban moor of Heaton.
Flakes of warm smoked ham hock with bintjo potatoes and truffled puy lentils was just the satisfying, murk-dispelling dish required. I envied my partner for ordering it. What made it really sing for her was the savoury, crisp, soft poached egg (I should have asked how they do it).
Her grilled cod supreme was a grand, flaky chunk in a mussel and cockle chowder (a very Damson juxtaposition) accompanied by charred, sprouting broccoli. I wasn’t complaining about my almost unctuous pork belly with spiced cabbage and dice potato in another broth, this rich from smoked ham, though the coriander was undetectable.
Puddings are a Stanley strong point. My rhubarb and custard tart (below) was in complete harmony with its tangy blood orange and strawberry sauce; and if an iced peanut butter parfait with brittle, banana and toffee it its composition wasn’t my bag, it was appreciated across the table.
]I would never discourage any potential custom from sallying forth across the Damson a la carte in either venue, but for an affordable taste of what this restaurant is all about this set menu is the real deal.
Damson, 113 Heaton Moor Rd, Stockport, Cheshire SK4 4HY. 0161 432 4666. The set menu is available 12pm-2.30pm Tues-Fri, 5.30pm-9.30pm Mon-Fri and 5.30pm-6.30pm Saturday.