THE old adage about having to move forward just to stand still is being applied big time across the fast-changing Manchester food and drink scene. Just a couple of weeks after we published a rundown on the year’s hottest openings and while we are relishing the high profile arrival of the hottest of the lot, 20 Stories, suddenly a raft of fascinating, groundbreaking ventures is appearing from under the radar.
Rabid speculation suggests that serial crowdfunder Gary Usher may open his sixth bistro, Kala, on King Street.
He told industry bible The Caterer his fifth will be Pinion in Prescot and he was considering city centre sites for Kala (it means black in Urdu) as a Manchester follow-up to his acclaimed Hispi in Didsbury.
If it is to be King Street it will join in a genuine gastro hub the recently announced and Pep Guardiola-backed Catalan restaurant Tast Cuin Catalana, set to open in June, and El Gato Negro, itself actively seeking sites elsewhere in Manchester with Ancoats the likeliest destination.
That area will also be the new home for a project by Simon Martin (above), a former chef at Rene Redzepi’s legendary Noma in Copenhagen. The social media announced ambitions for Mana (in Hindi it loosely means the elemental power of the soul)indicate that level of culinary stardust may be scattered on Ancoats.
The Tweeted picture below indicates they have found the site they are looking for (no, we’re not sure, either). Another Tweet promises “two state of the art kitchens, a science facility, a research and development facility, indoor garden and aquarium and a place for chefs to have a pre-prep nap!”
Across four dates in March and April Gary will be running trial run 12-15 course pop-up meals at Chester’s new Chef’s Table restaurant in his home town. A chart showing the genesis of one of his dishes, Charred Beach Cabbage, cooked over pure carbon, lovage and horseradish shows we are not talking burger and dog joint here. The 27-year-old travelled with Redzepi to Mexico for seven weeks of pop-ups there and helped plan the recent launch of Noma 2.0 in the Danish capital.
As a 30-cover leftfield destination it is likely to rival Where The Light Gets In, Manchester Food and Drink Awards newcomer of the year 2017. This summer its chef Sam Buckley is hosting the Chef’s Table at the Wilderness rockfest. Meanwhile, Stockport’s other young culinary luminary, Chef of the Year 2017 Matthew Nutter, is going musically hardcore every Wednesday evening at his Vernon Street vegan restaurant, Allotment.
From Wednesday, March 7 the will host Howlers. For £30 a head you get a three course meal, switching from the usual fine dine, of plant-based hot wings, burgers and beer, mixed in with some punk, funk and hip hop (with an occasional live DJ). Book here.