The Michelin guide to Great Britain & Ireland 2011 was released yesterday and once again, the prestigious index of the nationâs top restaurants included no stars for Manchesterâs chefs.
Since the closure of Juniper two years ago, the city has not secured any of the precious âstarâ accolades. But taking food critic Jay Raynerâs line on the subject, no resident stars may be no bad thing. There is, after all, a kind of formula to Michelin-starred food and service which can be cloying and unimaginative. Faffy pre-dinner snacks, a flurry of service, over-ornate presentation, a mountain-range of cheeses and, of course, an astronomical price tag are just a few typical ingredients.
Iâve eaten in some truly awesome Michelin star restaurants (Es Moli Dem Bou in Mallorca is a favourite) while others have exhibited great skill but lack any sense of soul. Itâs possible that Raynor is right, that Michelin stars are past their sell by date and itâs time for something new.
As with any rating system, there are boxes to tick, and when caterers clock on to what these âboxesâ are, they can, with enough commitment and talent, tick them. The proliferation of â4 starâ hotels proves that ticking boxes is no mark of genuine quality, so instead of crying into our chips, perhaps we should be satisfied with what we have in Manchester, which is a thriving community of impassioned diners and a thriving community of restaurants that keep us (mostly) happy.
Having said that, a central-British location means that those who want the whole Michelin shebang have a number of options within easy driving reach. The Lake District is the most picturesque spot to tuck in and is home to The Samling, Sharrow Bay Country House (pictured) and Holbeck Ghyl (check out our review here). Just up the road in Langho, meanwhile, diners can sample the modern British creations at Northcote Manor while LâEnclume in Cartmel retained its star for another year, as did Simon Radley at The Grosvenor in Chester.
Commenting on the 2011 guide, Editor in Chief Rebecca Burr said: âThis centenary edition underlines the UKâs greatest strength which is the rich diversity and variety of its restaurants. The country embraces all kinds of restaurants and every type of cuisine and the publicâs appetite shows no signs of abating.â?
âThere is no doubt that 2010 was a difficult year but those hotels and restaurants that represented value for money, at whatever price, were the ones who were best placed to weather the storm. We found 12 new one star establishments and awarded 26 new Bib Gourmands which readers particularly appreciate for their moderate prices.â?
