ROOMS culinary reputation has been built on playful takes on and quirky deconstructions of familiar dishes, so the real surprise of its new Spring/Summer menu would have been No Surprises. That wasnt the case.
If invention, now in the capable hands of chef James Wallis, shows little sign of flagging, the cost of sharing such fantasies on a plate doesnt come cheap. Most of the non-veggie mains hover around the £19 mark with starters between £7 and £10 (alternatively pick from the classic dish section and part of the grill section, ranging from £12.50 to £15.95 for an 8oz rump of steak).
Still, the more inventive level, theres lots of fun to be had. Take my companions fish and chips starter for £9.95 two fried scallops, sweet, creamily mushy peas, peas shoots a smear of pea puree, garlic chips and for that ironic chip shop echo, scraps in a paper parcel.
Better still my Thats All Folks (£7.95), a homage to Bugs Bunny that accompanied a lovely, moist tranche of rabbit and ham hock pressing with more green puree, but also a plastic garden pot of pickled shallots and carrots in olive soil. A slightly jaded conceit, but it works for a spring menu.
Three Little Pigs
I stayed in the nursery for my main of Three Little Pigs three pork cuts, hay smoked jowl, charcoal loin and the pick, a dense porky faggot, Rooms global expansion marked by its spring cabbage wrapping and a slightly overwhelming star anise jus (£18.95).
Thai green curry soared above pub staple status, as it should for £19.50, by the inclusion of turbot and mussels and a heady cocktail of fresh herbs and coconut milk about it. The advertised wild rice looked like straight jasmine to me.
I didnt get to taste my friends (deconstructed) mango and coconut cheesecake with its mojito sorbet (£7.50). For a quid less, I finished with Gin & Tonic. Not the popular aperitif alone, that would be too obvious. No, this was lemon posset, lemon tart and a gin and tonic sorbet. A refreshing citrus and botanicals rush that really worked.
By now we had the glorious dining room to ourselves. Sitting at the best table on the house, surveying the buses trundling up King Street, I felt once again that Room is one of the most consistent kitchens in the city. Sound culinary principles are the bedrock for all the artful stuff on the menu. Recommended.
Room Restaurant and Cocktail Bar, 81 King Street, Manchester M2 4ST. 0161 839 2005, www.roomrestaurants.com