By Lisa Higginson
South America has long been on my list of destinations to visit before I die - not least because it produces some of the best beef in the world and - as the daughter of a butcher - I feel it would be a necessary pilgrimage.
But as it is, I have not even had to leave Manchester to sample the continentâs superior ingredient I speak of. For there is a little corner of this big city that is paying culinary homage to Brazil and its historic gastronomic traditions.
Tropeiro - named after the first Brazilian cowboys - is tucked away on the aptly named Brazil Street, and is the baby of Brazilian-born owner Nei Borgert.
The menu is tailored around the Churrasco - a traditional South Brazilian barbecue discovered in the 17th Century by cowboys who took to roasting large cuts of meat over an open wood fire. Seasoned and spiked on huge skewers, the meat at Tropeiro is cooked on the Churrasqueira barbecue before the well-appointed waiters deliver it (skewer and all) straight to your table where they then carve it onto your plate.
Among the stars of this carnivorous show are Fraldinha (bottom fillet of beef), Linguica (thick pork sausages flavoured with garlic), Costela and Costela de Porco (slow-roasted beef and pork ribs), Cordeiro (leg of lamb marinated with garlic and rosemary), Picanha (Brazilâs most popular cut of sirloin) and Frango (bacon-wrapped chicken breast). This is then accompanied by a selection of fresh salads, vegetables, slow-cooked stews, bread and potatoes that adorn a self-service bar in the middle of the restaurant.
For just £19.55 per head you can frequent the salad bar as many times as you wish and the meat will just keep coming! The beef and lamb was some of the best I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Perfectly cooked in every essence of the word, the beef was unbelievably tender and delivered deep flavour.
The lamb itself could have been cut with a butter knife (a telling sign of tenderness) and there was just the right amount of garlic to add a subtle undertone. Effortless to eat were the ribs, with their tender meat falling from the bone, and the chicken was a far cry from the tasteless, dry variety that all too often graces restaurant plates.
A little extra taste of authenticity came in the form of chicken hearts, which were packed onto the skewers and roasted in the same way. This bite-sized offal offering was reminiscent of liver and not unpleasant at all.
Flavourful salads (variations of cous cous, chickpea, lentil and green), vegetables and potatoes were well executed and a perfect pairing for the meat.
It seemed only right that while in Brazil, I should do as the Brazilians do and sip on Caipirinha or two. This classic cocktail is created using Brazilâs national spirit Cachaca, which is muddled with fresh lime and brown sugar. Tropeiro served up the best I have had.
There was also a well-balanced wine list to suit all budgets and a good selection of international beers to choose from.
If the food doesnât win you over at Tropeiro, then the atmosphere will. The restaurant is brought to life by the waiters buzzing from table to table armed with their meaty skewers and the passion this place has for its Brazilian food is evident in every mouthful.
It is hard to resist Tropeiroâs offerings - even if you have had one chicken heart too many.
Tropeiro, Brazil Street,Manchester
T: 0161 923 6846
W: www.tropeiro.co.uk