Over the past year or so I have been fortunate enough to spend a few months travelling in Spain, and its Islands, working on a major project of my own. Returning home after Christmas I looked forward to checking out Paul Heathcoteâs latest project, his new Spanish restaurant and Bar, Grado. To be frank my expectations werenât that high, after taking recent visits to other Heathcotes venues into account; how wrong could I be: Grado is superb, offering much of what is best about Spanish hospitality, in a modern setting, that bears more than a passing resemblance to Barcelonaâs iconic Cal Pep restaurant.
After the décor, the first thing that grabs your attention at Grado is the quality of the service. Somehow Grado has managed to put together a team of passionate, knowledgeable individuals who are right at the top of their game, with consummate professional Marco Ficini at the helm.
On this visit my wife and I began our meal in traditional style with a drink at the bar and shared tapas of Salt Cod Fitters served with a moreish smoked anchovy mayonnaise (£5) and Calcots with Salbitxada sauce (£3). The drinks list features the Fernando de Castilla range of Sherries that are quite simply some of the finest examples available. Similar quality can be found throughout the extraordinarily comprehensive wine menu and the superb selection of beers and ciders.
From the bar we moved on to our restaurant table. Raised above the main eating area this upper level affords customers a panoramic view of the bar and the lively open kitchen, adding a nice theatrical touch; etched glass screens provide some degree of privacy for diners.
Each day there is a different roast available from the charcoal oven (£12.95) and I had already decided to go for that dayâs special of Roast Pork. It arrived beautifully cooked with a silky layer of fat below deliciously crisp crackling. Chorizo and baked potato accompanied, the latter, sprinkled with Jerez vinegar and olive oil was fluffy within, crisp on the outside and reminiscent of jacket potatoes baked in bonfires long ago. Spinach with raisins and pine nuts gave a lovely sweet edge; even better was the âmatch made in heavenâ? of Asturian Zythos still cider (6% 70cl £8.50).
Braised rabbit with Rioja was my wifeâs choice of main; we both had mental images of a fabulous dish enjoyed a few weeks ago on the outskirts of Pajara. Beautifully presented, it followed a totally different path from that memorable oven baked dish, surprisingly light and surrounded by prunes and pine nuts, the rabbit was presented artistically arranged on a moist risotto-like bed of Bomba rice.
Desserts continue in the Spanish theme although my warm chocolate pudding with hazelnuts (£6.00) could easily have featured on any mainstream menu. The Spanish Trifle (£6.00) however, proved the perfect foil for the rich flavours that had gone before; scant jelly, vanilla custard and moist sponge infused with the flavours of Seville evoking memories of Andalucia and beyond.
Russ Otterwell
GRADO
New York Street,
Piccadilly,
Manchester.
M1 4BD
Telephone 0161 238 9790