31 March 2009

A new Hallmark Hotel has opened in Handforth, right near Manchester airport. This is so handy for anyone staying at the airport, as well as anyone who goes out shopping to Handforth Dean, Stanley Green or John Lewis.

I turned up for a meal on a Friday night with no expectations at all, as I’d never been to its predecessor, the Belfry House Hotel. It has been given a complete overhaul, with an upmarket, sumptuous feel with lots of rich colours. It is now owned by a small boutique chain which has four recently transformed hotels.

The brasserie has booths along the side wall and a feature fireplace for a relaxing cosy atmosphere. A concise menu has a variety of contemporary dishes all done very well, including rope grown mussels with three different sauces.

Our evening started with the wine menu, which was handily divided into sections for an easy selection. Across the table, the choice was a glass of Moonriver Pinot Grigio 2007/8 from Hungary, from the crisp and fresh section (£4.10 for small glass, £5.90 for large and £17.50 for a bottle). I chose from the fruity and juicy section: a glass of Les Nuages Pinot Noir 2006/7 from France (£4.60 for small glass, £6.60 for large and £19.50 for a bottle.)

The presentation had the ‘ooh’ factor throughout, and my Country pate and ham hock terrine (£5.50) came on its own wooden board, with a spicy piccalilli and a smoother fruity chutney. The meat in the Crispy duck pancakes (£6.50) was beautifully moist and tender, unlike in a Chinese restaurant where it tends to be drier so it flakes, and came with crisp leek, spring onion and sweet plum sauce.

My main course of belly pork (£12.50) was a fantastic example of how this underused cut should be cooked. It was crisp on the outside, including a shark’s fin of crackling, and plump and juicy inside. A slightly sweet sauce gave a nice bite to the meat, and was soaked up by the champ potatoes, mixed up with cheese and spring onion. A side portion of spinach (£2.50) gave some balance to the rich meal.

Fish of the day was haddock (£10.95) and it came all delicately wrapped in tempura batter, with a Jenga tower of chunky chips and mushy peas. I love the way a staple British greasy dish translates so well into a light upmarket dish.

I tried to resist dessert but the manager was very persuasive, so I went for ice cream (£4.95) thinking it was showing restraint. A whole tray came out , with three little dishes of vanilla and chocolate ice cream and mango sorbet, along with a shot glass of flavoured sauce to accompany each of the treats. A Country style pear, poached in cinnamon and ginger, with panacotta and chocolate sauce was a similarly beautiful presented dish (£4.95).

The level of home cooked, locally sourced food was of a really high standard, which could match any restaurant in the city centre. I’ll definitely be tying in another visit with a shopping trip soon.

Hallmark Hotel, Stanley Road, Handforth, Wilmslow, SK9 3LD.
T: 0161 437 0511
E: [email protected]
E [email protected]
W: www.hallmarkhotels.co.uk

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