AN esteemed critic colleague spent much of his review of Tapeo reminiscing about the boy toy joys of its previous incarnation as Modelzone. I won’t, can’t, though I’m happy to endorse his verdict that this family-run affair may well be the pick of Manchester’s recent ‘Spanish Armada’ – a raft of restaurants that includes Iberica, El Gato Negro, Lunya and La Bandera. Check out our Top 10 Spanish here.
It’s rare to encounter a series of dishes without a flaw, which happened here. Admittedly we stuck to fish choices, culminating in a quite magnificent Meloso de Bogavante (lobster Meloso rice, £25.90). Natalia (above) and Nacho Esquerdo, who run Tapeo, are originally from Valencia, where they know thing or two about rice dishes. Paella, naturally. That Iberian classic isn’t ready until the heat is turned up on the wide, shallow metal pan, creating that toasty, crackly rice crust underneath they call socarrat.
Meloso style rice, in contrast, is all creamy and al dente, slightly sloppy from extra fish stock (almost, whisper it softly risotto-like). Tapeo’s Meloso ticked the box gorgeously, generous with the lobster, whose carapace obviously formed the base for its intense stock, saffron, pimiento and tomato adding their headiness.
The Esquerdos’ attention to detail had been apparent from the start of our lunch in the stylish 120-cover taperia on Deansgate. In the decor and in the food. Moorish-style mosaics decorate the bars on both floors; there’s smart herringbone parquet flooring; copper features, particularly in the basement private dining room; and there’s fine leather seating. Spanish to the core, it fits in with the glorious architectural heritage of the 1904 building
The food? Obligatory Pan con Tomate came with the tomato flesh on the side, to add yourself, so the toasted bread didn’t arrive soggy. They joined a crisp and saline Gutierrez Manzanilla (£4) and a saucer of those marvellous Campo Real olives, marinated in oregano, marjoram, fennel and garlic.
The sherry was the harbinger of a small procession of immaculate wines by the glass – a Lagar de Xestosa Godello (£8.50, 250ml), Cristina Calvache Jaen Blanca and a Nuestra Bobal Pago de Tharsys (£8.80).
The first white, classic Galician spice and citrus; the second, made from an indigenous Andalucian grape by one of Spain’s leading female winemakers, full of tropical and stone fruit flavours with a complex minerality; the red, adding 15 per cent Cabernet Franc to the red grape native to Valencia, was all smooth blackcurrant and vanilla, perfect for a classy closing platter of cheese and membrillo.
Before that our tapas had included lobster and prawn croquetas, crisp-fried outside, gooey crustacean inside (£8.60), hake in a garlicky cream sauce with clams (£7.90) and pulpo a la brasa, an ample helping of chargrilled octopus with hot paprika that’s even more impressive than La Bandera’s.
Whether the acorn-fed Jamon Iberico is better than so many strong rivals along Spaingate and Spainingfields, notably Iberica’s, I’m not sure. Which is a good enough reason to go back to Tapeo.
Well, I also have to taste the pan-fried rabbit, milk-fed lamb shoulder and aubergine crisps glazed with Pedro Ximenez and honey, as recommended by my colleague, the one still glueing Airfix models in his dreams.
Tapeo, 209 Deansgate, Manchester M3 3NW. 0161 832 2700. @TapeoandWine
