Reviews

Review: Masons Summer Menu

Review: Masons Summer Menu

THE Internet does a brisk trade in Freemasons’ gavels. I’m spoilt for choice, whether I want a skull’s head curiosity concealing an arcane seal (eBay) or a solider number crafted from kiln-dried Minnesota walnut and ...

31 July 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Anthologist, St Peter’s Square

Review: The Anthologist, St Peter’s Square

EVERY child’s party dream is a chocolate fountain with marshmallows; so why does this grown-up cocktail aficionado’s heart not sing when confronted by a ‘Negroni Fountain’? Maybe I don’t like my favourite tipple ‘on draught’, ...

27 July 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Out of town review: Moorcock, Norland

Out of town review: Moorcock, Norland

A FAR from pretty moorland pub lauded to the skies for its innovative cuisine by the Observer’s Jay Rayner and fellow food critic Marina O’Loughlin of the Sunday Times. It lured ToM to take the ...

19 July 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Sugo, Sawmill Court, Ancoats

Review: Sugo, Sawmill Court, Ancoats

WORK never ceases at the dark end of Blossom Street, Ancoats. One day the Sawmill Court residential development will be finished, but for now beyond Elnecot you negotiate a narrow building site passage and step ...

5 July 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: WOOD five course tasting menu

Review: WOOD five course tasting menu

ENGLAND are heading for the dreaded penalty shoot-out and we are preparing to tackle the final course of a tasting menu. Will it be a winner? These parades of dishes with paired wines can be ...

4 July 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Grafene, city centre

Review: Grafene, city centre

TIMES food critic Giles Coren lamented the other week how his role meant he never went back to any restaurant he loved. Novelty is all in the review game. More so for a national scribe ...

14 June 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: ‘Evening Tea’ at the Midland Hotel

Review: ‘Evening Tea’ at the Midland Hotel

JUST as Breakfast begat Brunch it was inevitable that Afternoon Tea might one day morph into Evening Tea. Not so very different from that traditional hearty Northern High Tea, maybe, only posher. Certainly at The ...

1 June 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

Review: Elnecot Summer Menu

SMALL plates are not going to go away any time soon. Grazing seems to match the attention span of a millennial media surfer. Download six dishes between us – we’re no longer attached to the ...

22 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street

IT is the most expensive single prawn I’ve ever eaten – and the most delicious. A deep-sea Carabinero, so called because the striking colour of the shells matches that of a Spanish policeman’s uniform. In ...

14 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

Review: The Creameries, Chorlton

IDEALISM is a precious commodity. One to be treasured in a world where food can be as fake as the news. The Creameries has set itself a standard as outlined by co-owner Soo Wilkinson prior ...

11 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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