Reviews

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

Review; Indian Tiffin Room

WE went to Indian Tiffin Room with the best of plant-based intentions. Ideally to promote Indian regional food as the perfect way to celebrate National Vegetarian Week (May 14-20). Then we spotted grilled lamb chops ...

10 May 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

Review: Asha's vegetarian offering

IT is apparently a myth – sacred cow even – that the Indian diet is predominantly vegetarian, though it’s a minefield trying to pin down the exact demographic region by region, religious community by community. ...

23 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House

MAYBE it was the inner socialist raging inside ToM’s representative but he balked at the Millionaire’s Sandwich when it made its Manchester House debut during the unveiling of new exec chef Nat Tofan’s spring menu. ...

17 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange

THEY named the Royal Exchange’s current restaurant after the theatre’s first production, Sheridan’s The Rivals. Framed programme extracts hanging in the reinvented dining space make me suddenly feel old. Quoth the Ancient Critic casting his ...

12 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

Review: Rudy's Pizza, Peter Street

ONCE upon a time when fish and chips was unanimously the nation’s favourite fast food Harry Ramsden’s was founded in a wooden hut north of Leeds. Within three years canny Harry had moved into a ...

11 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

REVIEW: THE RELAUNCHED RABBIT IN THE MOON

WITH apologies to the Stone Roses, this is the resurrection, this is the light, this is a Rabbit in the Moon that shines like never before. Out of this world? It’s finally getting there. Relaunches ...

6 April 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: 20 Stories

Review: 20 Stories

SETTLE down. That’s what critics should let a restaurant do before any forensic examination. All that soft launch shenanigans put to bed, the PR stunts shuffled off, the inevitable menu tweaks (lose that broccoli quiche) ...

29 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot

THE treadmill of reviewing in a frenetic food and drink scene means that we rarely get to revisit an immediate favourite. OK, you’re not feeling sorry for us at all, but you get the drift. ...

22 March 2018

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham

WOULD you book a restaurant on the strength of its soundtrack? Thought not. Unless your idea of a good time is lashings of Van Halen and a Hard Rock Jumbo Combo. On an early Friday ...

15 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene

IT’S a hostage to fortune lauding a young chef to the skies. A reviewing colleague of a certain girth (and nobody’s fool) gave an unprecedented score to a new restaurant based upon its young chef ...

7 March 2018 by Neil Sowerby

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