ENGLAND are heading for the dreaded penalty shoot-out and we are preparing to tackle the final course of a tasting menu. Will it be a winner? These parades of dishes with paired wines can be ...
Reviews
Review: Grafene, city centre
TIMES food critic Giles Coren lamented the other week how his role meant he never went back to any restaurant he loved. Novelty is all in the review game. More so for a national scribe ...
Review: ‘Evening Tea’ at the Midland Hotel
JUST as Breakfast begat Brunch it was inevitable that Afternoon Tea might one day morph into Evening Tea. Not so very different from that traditional hearty Northern High Tea, maybe, only posher. Certainly at The ...
Review: Elnecot Summer Menu
SMALL plates are not going to go away any time soon. Grazing seems to match the attention span of a millennial media surfer. Download six dishes between us – we’re no longer attached to the ...
Review: Umezushi, Mirabel Street
IT is the most expensive single prawn I’ve ever eaten – and the most delicious. A deep-sea Carabinero, so called because the striking colour of the shells matches that of a Spanish policeman’s uniform. In ...
Review: The Creameries, Chorlton
IDEALISM is a precious commodity. One to be treasured in a world where food can be as fake as the news. The Creameries has set itself a standard as outlined by co-owner Soo Wilkinson prior ...
Review; Indian Tiffin Room
WE went to Indian Tiffin Room with the best of plant-based intentions. Ideally to promote Indian regional food as the perfect way to celebrate National Vegetarian Week (May 14-20). Then we spotted grilled lamb chops ...
Review: Asha's vegetarian offering
IT is apparently a myth – sacred cow even – that the Indian diet is predominantly vegetarian, though it’s a minefield trying to pin down the exact demographic region by region, religious community by community. ...
Review: Nat Tofan at Manchester House
MAYBE it was the inner socialist raging inside ToM’s representative but he balked at the Millionaire’s Sandwich when it made its Manchester House debut during the unveiling of new exec chef Nat Tofan’s spring menu. ...
Review: The Rivals at The Royal Exchange
THEY named the Royal Exchange’s current restaurant after the theatre’s first production, Sheridan’s The Rivals. Framed programme extracts hanging in the reinvented dining space make me suddenly feel old. Quoth the Ancient Critic casting his ...