WITH apologies to the Stone Roses, this is the resurrection, this is the light, this is a Rabbit in the Moon that shines like never before. Out of this world? It’s finally getting there. Relaunches ...
Reviews
Review: 20 Stories
SETTLE down. That’s what critics should let a restaurant do before any forensic examination. All that soft launch shenanigans put to bed, the PR stunts shuffled off, the inevitable menu tweaks (lose that broccoli quiche) ...
Review: Sunday roast at Elnecot
THE treadmill of reviewing in a frenetic food and drink scene means that we rarely get to revisit an immediate favourite. OK, you’re not feeling sorry for us at all, but you get the drift. ...
Review: Blanchflower, Altrincham
WOULD you book a restaurant on the strength of its soundtrack? Thought not. Unless your idea of a good time is lashings of Van Halen and a Hard Rock Jumbo Combo. On an early Friday ...
Review: Ben Mounsey at Grafene
IT’S a hostage to fortune lauding a young chef to the skies. A reviewing colleague of a certain girth (and nobody’s fool) gave an unprecedented score to a new restaurant based upon its young chef ...
Review: The Patron, Northern Quarter
THE Northern Quarter periodically subscribes to a New York vibe. It must be all those Big Apple on the cheap movie location shots it has hosted. Some bars try for it and get it, notably ...
Review: Bundobust new menu
NELSON Wang, now there’s a name to conjure with. Not on your radar the Mumbai restaurateur of Chinese lineage who invented Manchurian Chicken in the Seventies? Me neither until an encounter with the Gobi Mushroom ...
Review: Yu, Alderley Edge
DURING a sojourn in Hong Kong I never encountered a deconstructed duck. I saw a man deconstructing several live snakes with a machete and declined the resulting soup. But in the teeming melting pot of ...
Review: Australasia, Spinningfields
AUSTRALASIA was always a loving nod to creator Tim Bacon’s Aussie roots, where Pacific Rim cuisine and fruity New World wine had gradually ousted the old Commonwealth pie and tinny culture. Welcome to the Republic ...
Review: Mr Cooper's, Midland Hotel
IT’S a year since The Midland Hotel’s flagship restaurant was successfully repositioned as Adam Reid at The French following the departure of Simon Rogan. Under the radar during all this went Rogan’s stylishly workaday second ...