IT was just one of those vegan days. An email alert for next month’s Central Manchester Vegan Fair, a card in the station waiting room for a non-dairy eating electrician, ‘Vegan Spark’, a peep into ...
Reviews
Review: The Refuge by Volta
IN a week when fine dining bastion The French unveils a casual small plate lunch menu for midweek it’s hard not to detect a debt to the groove pioneered by Volta. The eclectic but perfectly ...
Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens
IT’S no shame to slurp loudly when sucking up ramen from its bone stock. In noodle bars in the southern Japanese city of Fukuoka, where the benchmark Tonkotsu ramen originated, all around it must be ...
Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast
BAR of the Year in the 2016 Manchester Food and Drink Awards, Albert’s Schloss refuses to rest on its laurels. Some might say it is straying from its Germanic culinary template, but the arrival of ...
Review: Hispi, Didsbury
TO the point. Restaurant reviews sometimes are. We are going to take Gary Usher at his word. On the opening night of his third bistro, Hispi, he told me: “I don’t want this to be ...
Review: My Thai, John Dalton Street
SPLENDID Kitchen was part of that first flurry of restaurant closures back in June that generated a spate of media jeremiads (lovely word) about the whole scene being doomed. This was – remarkably – pre-Brexit, ...
Review: Matt White Goes Trimango at Tariff and Dale
I NEVER thought it was possible. The stuff dreams were made of. Not one, not two, but three meals in one day containing mango. But I did it. I achieved the impossible dream. I mean, ...
Review: Indique, West Didsbury
I THINK I’ve found the best Indian restaurant in town. Open just three months and still under the radar despite generating a local Didsbury buzz. Best start with what it doesn’t do. It doesn’t hang ...
Review: Grafene, city centre
ON the evening £1.5m Menagerie unleashed its VIP launch bash – cue paparazzi snapping C-list lovelies – I tickled my palate with a tasting menu in Grafene, which itself has spent a considerable amount of ...
Review: Squid Ink, Ancoats
RESTAURANTS named after ingredients I’ve always had a problem with. Even when there are damned good examples around – Damson, Brassica, Beef and Pudding. And don’t forget Gordon Ramsay began his Michelin-starred ascent to greatness ...