EASY to get your Skyrs and your Skreis in a twist. The first is that Icelandic yoghurty stuff which has invaded the supermarket cool counters; the second is an even stealthier intruder – delicious wild ...
Reviews
Review: Refuge Sunday Roasts
ARE you a brunch or a roast kind of weekender? – the sort of question served up in those lazy celeb soundbites in the posh Sundays. I’m neither, as it happens. Not that my shrinking ...
Review: Pasta Factory, Shudehill
A SIMPLE pasta dish for lunch with a glass of wine. Easy to rustle up at home – boil to al dente the Cecco or Barilla, in the shape of your choice, and pour on ...
Review: Bundobust, Piccadilly
IT has become a habit. Purse strings stretched, this time we’ll just do the set lunch… and then can’t resist piling on the extra dishes. Not that such behaviour is going to bankrupt you at ...
Review: The Fusion Lab, Arndale Market
WATCH classical musicians try and play jazz. It just doesn’t work. Ask them to dip into World Music. Even worse. Ditto chefs trained in fine dining kitchens when asked to hang loose and produce street ...
Review: Allotment Vegan Restaurant, Stockport
IT was just one of those vegan days. An email alert for next month’s Central Manchester Vegan Fair, a card in the station waiting room for a non-dairy eating electrician, ‘Vegan Spark’, a peep into ...
Review: The Refuge by Volta
IN a week when fine dining bastion The French unveils a casual small plate lunch menu for midweek it’s hard not to detect a debt to the groove pioneered by Volta. The eclectic but perfectly ...
Review: Shoryu Ramen, Piccadilly Gardens
IT’S no shame to slurp loudly when sucking up ramen from its bone stock. In noodle bars in the southern Japanese city of Fukuoka, where the benchmark Tonkotsu ramen originated, all around it must be ...
Review: Albert's Schloss Sunday Roast
BAR of the Year in the 2016 Manchester Food and Drink Awards, Albert’s Schloss refuses to rest on its laurels. Some might say it is straying from its Germanic culinary template, but the arrival of ...
Review: Hispi, Didsbury
TO the point. Restaurant reviews sometimes are. We are going to take Gary Usher at his word. On the opening night of his third bistro, Hispi, he told me: “I don’t want this to be ...