SPLENDID Kitchen was part of that first flurry of restaurant closures back in June that generated a spate of media jeremiads (lovely word) about the whole scene being doomed. This was – remarkably – pre-Brexit, ...
Reviews
Review: Matt White Goes Trimango at Tariff and Dale
I NEVER thought it was possible. The stuff dreams were made of. Not one, not two, but three meals in one day containing mango. But I did it. I achieved the impossible dream. I mean, ...
Review: Indique, West Didsbury
I THINK I’ve found the best Indian restaurant in town. Open just three months and still under the radar despite generating a local Didsbury buzz. Best start with what it doesn’t do. It doesn’t hang ...
Review: Grafene, city centre
ON the evening £1.5m Menagerie unleashed its VIP launch bash – cue paparazzi snapping C-list lovelies – I tickled my palate with a tasting menu in Grafene, which itself has spent a considerable amount of ...
Review: Squid Ink, Ancoats
RESTAURANTS named after ingredients I’ve always had a problem with. Even when there are damned good examples around – Damson, Brassica, Beef and Pudding. And don’t forget Gordon Ramsay began his Michelin-starred ascent to greatness ...
Review: Iberica Spinningfields summer menu
ONE of the most amazing culinary collaborations Manchester has witnessed came in May when superstar Quique Dacosta, who holds three Michelin stars for his ‘Quique Dacosta' restaurant in Denia and one Michelin star at ‘El ...
Review: The Osteria at Norden
IT’s hardly a case of mass osteria. The last one I can recall in this region was the Osteria Mauro in Cheshire’s leafy, footballer-rich Mottram St Andrew. It was run until his 2012 retirement by ...
Review: Man Bites Frog, Chorlton
IF awards were handed out for bar/restaurant names then Man Bites Frog is a genuine contender. Not that this Chorlton newcomer’s actual sign screams out rivetingly in neon or anything; it’s a tiny wooden effort. ...
Review: Albert Square Chop House
THERE are watershed moments in life and I’ve just encountered one. Let me map it out starkly: He Failed To Finish His Chop House Steak And Kidney Pudding. I averted my gaze shamefacedly as our ...
Review: Tapeo, Deansgate
AN esteemed critic colleague spent much of his review of Tapeo reminiscing about the boy toy joys of its previous incarnation as Modelzone. I won’t, can’t, though I’m happy to endorse his verdict that this ...