Reviews

Review: Neil Sowerby slaps his thigh and yodels after a night on the Pils at Albert’s Schloss

Review: Neil Sowerby slaps his thigh and yodels after a night on the Pils at Albert’s Schloss

SCHWEINSHAXE sounds like a Teutonic expletive. It is a bit near the knuckle, actually – the pork knuckle bone. The meat on my £13.50 main tears off in great shards, soon soaked in red cabbage ...

27 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Pen and Pencil – Mad about the cocktails and the vibe, less so the victuals

Pen and Pencil – Mad about the cocktails and the vibe, less so the victuals

I SPENT early spring road-tripping around Northern Ireland, unaware I was trespassing upon Game of Thrones locations along the way. Why was Antrim coastal bolthole Ballintoy thronged midweek in March? Because here: “Theon was baptised ...

23 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy’s Pizza – Delizioso Napoli on a plate in Little Italy

Review: Rudy’s Pizza – Delizioso Napoli on a plate in Little Italy

PIZZA time in old Naples. On the Via Cesare Sercale the packed queue waits patiently for discs of simply topped dough. Da Michele only does two versions – Marinara and Margherita. Ask for a deep ...

22 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Let’s go mild in Mexico – Cautious Wahaca puts the why into Yucatan

Let’s go mild in Mexico – Cautious Wahaca puts the why into Yucatan

WE asked for Adventure and it came. Relentlessly. Dish after dish. Until the table was as gridlocked as Mexico City at rush hour. Tacos, tostadas, emapanadas, quesadillas overload. All our own fault for lazily ordering ...

8 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Welcome to Saison – mellow and fruitful addition to the Burton Road bar scene

Welcome to Saison – mellow and fruitful addition to the Burton Road bar scene

I PICTURE myself as the autumn chills set in and the sere brown leaves whirl down Burton Road. There I am at a pavement table outside Saison, swathed in a pashmina, swaddling a pint plus ...

6 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

The ‘Quartier du Nord’ hots up with the arrival of 63 Degrees

The ‘Quartier du Nord’ hots up with the arrival of 63 Degrees

“RECHARGER les batteries”. Yes, that’s the French for what I presume chef Eric Moreau is doing back in his homeland as I write. As all good kitchens should, 63 Degrees had delivered the goods at ...

28 September 2015 by Neil Sowerby

WOOD you believe it? – the NQ’s perfect small plate hideaway

WOOD you believe it? – the NQ’s perfect small plate hideaway

IT goes against the grain to admit it but I am not a dab hand with a chainsaw. So a stack of junk emails urging ‘The Easiest Way To Start Your Woodworking Project’ have triggered ...

28 September 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Lobster & Burger/ Steak & Lobster

Review: Lobster & Burger/ Steak & Lobster

The World’s Your Lobster in Manchester these days, but surely it has to taste of something, believes Neil Sowerby, comparing two rival purveyors... EVERYBODY loves a bargain. Cast your mind back to last Christmas when ...

23 August 2015

Review: Harvey Nichols’ surprising new small plate menu

Review: Harvey Nichols’ surprising new small plate menu

Harvey Nichols invited Taste of Manchester to taste the small plate menu at their Second Floor Bar and Brasserie. Here's how it went... THIS year for the first time Harvey Nichols will be cooking the ...

18 August 2015

Neil Sowerby reviews Simon Rogan at The French

Neil Sowerby reviews Simon Rogan at The French

IT’S the first time I’ve reviewed a restaurant you can’t even go to. Such an enthusiastic review, too, though I’m not alone in my admiration for The French, of course. Just look at the amazing ...

10 August 2015

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