Reviews

Review – Comptoir Libanais is a colourful, casual all-day treat

Review – Comptoir Libanais is a colourful, casual all-day treat

DAMMIT, I forgot to order a Bloody Sirine to round off a light-hearted lunch at Comptoir Libanais, our midwinter mood lifted by the near-psychedelic riot of yellows, oranges and turquoises all around (think of its ...

9 December 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Cottonopolis, NQ’s new culinary powerhouse

Review: Cottonopolis, NQ’s new culinary powerhouse

IN a week when a North West textile firm announced it is investing £5.8m to bring cotton spinning back to Greater Manchester it seemed quietly appropriate to check out a new bar/ restaurant called Cottonopolis. ...

4 December 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review – Lunya, handsome deli/eaterie in the Barton Arcade

Review – Lunya, handsome deli/eaterie in the Barton Arcade

CATALAN cuisine is a cauldron full of prawns and monkfish simmering in a rich broth on a butane stove in the galley of a fishing boat off the Costa Brava port of Palamos; it’s a ...

1 December 2015 by Neil Sowerby

REVIEW: Quill, King Street – Curtis Stewart's Terrific Tasting Menu

REVIEW: Quill, King Street – Curtis Stewart's Terrific Tasting Menu

I NEVER ventured into the old Duo store on King Street. The allure of fancy boots leaves me cold. Fancy food, that’s another matter. So does the £1m rebooting of the site to create Quill ...

27 November 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: The Asian Vegan Gospel according to the Hungry Gecko

Review: The Asian Vegan Gospel according to the Hungry Gecko

JACKIE Kearney already had the world at her feet when she became a Masterchef top 4 finalist. Well, she’d already trotted around a substantial chunk of it, her travels in Asia informing her cuisine. As ...

11 November 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Neil Sowerby slaps his thigh and yodels after a night on the Pils at Albert’s Schloss

Review: Neil Sowerby slaps his thigh and yodels after a night on the Pils at Albert’s Schloss

SCHWEINSHAXE sounds like a Teutonic expletive. It is a bit near the knuckle, actually – the pork knuckle bone. The meat on my £13.50 main tears off in great shards, soon soaked in red cabbage ...

27 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Pen and Pencil – Mad about the cocktails and the vibe, less so the victuals

Pen and Pencil – Mad about the cocktails and the vibe, less so the victuals

I SPENT early spring road-tripping around Northern Ireland, unaware I was trespassing upon Game of Thrones locations along the way. Why was Antrim coastal bolthole Ballintoy thronged midweek in March? Because here: “Theon was baptised ...

23 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Review: Rudy’s Pizza – Delizioso Napoli on a plate in Little Italy

Review: Rudy’s Pizza – Delizioso Napoli on a plate in Little Italy

PIZZA time in old Naples. On the Via Cesare Sercale the packed queue waits patiently for discs of simply topped dough. Da Michele only does two versions – Marinara and Margherita. Ask for a deep ...

22 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Let’s go mild in Mexico – Cautious Wahaca puts the why into Yucatan

Let’s go mild in Mexico – Cautious Wahaca puts the why into Yucatan

WE asked for Adventure and it came. Relentlessly. Dish after dish. Until the table was as gridlocked as Mexico City at rush hour. Tacos, tostadas, emapanadas, quesadillas overload. All our own fault for lazily ordering ...

8 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

Welcome to Saison – mellow and fruitful addition to the Burton Road bar scene

Welcome to Saison – mellow and fruitful addition to the Burton Road bar scene

I PICTURE myself as the autumn chills set in and the sere brown leaves whirl down Burton Road. There I am at a pavement table outside Saison, swathed in a pashmina, swaddling a pint plus ...

6 October 2015 by Neil Sowerby

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