ONE national food reviewer has just sung the praises of Gary Usher’s neighbourhood bistro template: “No, there really is nothing extraordinary about any of these dishes. There is no story. Except for the much bigger ...
Reviews
REVIEW: Six By Nico’s ‘Mexico’
WE trusted Glaswegian-Italian chef Nico Simeone knew his way around a deep-frier when he launched his first six course tasting menu in Manchester, ‘A Chippie Tea’. And as expected, his fine dining credentials shone through ...
Review: New menu at Elnecot
SMALL plates ought to be a boon for a reviewer. A busy procession of different flavours offering a multi-sensory kaleidoscope of a restaurant’s capabilities makes for an equally comprehensive write-up. In theory yes, but then ...
Review: El Camino in The Cotton Factory
FIRST impressions on our return to El Camino? Why hadn’t they mounted a set of lucha libre wrestling posters, as we’d recommended on a preview visit? OK, there were concessions to Mexico in what is ...
Review: Canto summer menu, Ancoats
WE always equate the Portuguese with a sense of adventure. All those 16th century mariners voyaging blindly into the Atlantic Ocean and beyond – Vasco da Gama, Ferdinand Magellan, Bartelomeo Dias. Each time we bite ...
Review: Mr Cooper’s, The Midland
OUR long overdue return to The Midland Hotel’s ‘other restaurant’ coincides with the announcement of a new Simon Rogan restaurant project up in The Lakes – Henrock at boutique hotel Linthwaite House. A little under ...
Review: Tampopo, Corn Exchange
WE went with the best intentions to explore the vegan/veggie options (they have separate menus for both) at David Fox’s basement celebration of South East Asian cuisine but couldn’t resist the allure of old favourites ...
Review: Lunch at Kala, King Street
‘ELITE Bistros’ is catchy but a contradiction in terms since the French model for such a casual eaterie always veered towards a scuffed, mix and match ambience, treasured by regulars with similar credentials. Elite is ...
Out of town review: Yakumama
WITH every street food operator there comes a time to settle down – blessedly under a roof and still trading. For Holy Crab, Wholesome Junkies and Blue Caribou Canteen that has recently meant neighbouring units ...
Review: Sardus Cucina, Altrincham
WHAT’S in a name? Altrincham is blessed with an admirable trio of restaurants rooted in Italian regional cuisines. The name of Puglian pasta masters Sugo means simply ‘Sauce’ while Neapolitan pizza and pollo palace Tre ...