AN esteemed food writer colleague, steeped in his native Rochdale, devoted much of his review of Bombay Brew to accounts of his Eighties high jinks there when the red brick edifice, historically the Wellington Inn, ...
Reviews
Review: Erst, Ancoats
SPREAD the word – Michelin-starred Mana doesn’t have a monopoly on contemporary culinary wizardry in Ancoats. Yet inevitably it steals most of the thunder. Close neighbour Erst refuses to prioritise the fascinations of Patrick Withington’s ...
Review: Dishoom vegan menu
IT arrives as a separate A5 sheet, the Dishoom vegan menu. One side says ‘Breakfast’, the other ‘Lunch and Later’. The first offers scrambled tofu and soy keema as alternatives to egg and minced lamb ...
Review: Edinburgh Castle, Ancoats
DON’T ever underestimate the amount of research ToM puts into its restaurant reviews. Take the opening gambit of our dinner in the upstairs dining room of the Edinburgh Castle. A trio of fresh shucked oysters ...
Review: Abeja Tapas at Hatch
‘FELIZ Navidad’, Ana from Granada. Discovering your tiny tapas bar among the foodie shipping containers of Hatch has made it a merry pre-Christmas for ToM. The best tortilla we’ve eaten outside Spain, silky croquetas, those ...
Review: The Bull & Bear
THE fate of the nation in the balance. So where else to go out for dinner on Election Night than that bastion of capitalism, the former Stock Exchange? The brokers’ ghosts looking down may be ...
Review: Wolf At The Door, Northern Quarter
IF the ‘Grand Tour’ for you means Jeremy Clarkson and his piston-headed pals signal away now. To ToM, with the benefit of an education, it evokes the peregrinations of upper class young fellows across Europe ...
Andes highs – five dishes to savour at Peru Perdu
THE closest we’ve been to Peru is footage of Paddington Bear rescued from an Amazon torrent. But put a Pisco Sour in our hand and we’re half way there. A it happens at Peru Perdu ...
Review: Mr Cooper’s Sunday menu
SUCH a relief to discover Mr Cooper’s new meat-led Sunday menu isn’t solely focused on roasts. Tomahawk or Chateaubriand? Now that’s a much more exciting choice than buttoned-up topside – with just a scattering of ...
Review: Bistrotheque at CULTUREPLEX
IN Steven Spielberg’s movie, Terminal, Tom Hanks played a stranded tourist forced by red tape to exist 24/7 inside New York’s JFK Airport. A strange fantasy? Well, the Ducie Street Warehouse offers its own opportunity ...